Formulating Liquid-to-Foam Facial Cleanser and Essential Oil Usage

Asked by: babydankrosebuds15 On: February 15, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a liquid-to-foam facial cleanser using the following ingredients:

  • Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
  • Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
  • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (makeupwash)
  • 1,2-Hexanediol
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Water

I would like to add Essential Oil for fragrance. What is the recommended usage percentage for Essential Oil in this type of product, and how should I approach the overall formulation using percentages?

Answer

Hello! It's great you're looking to create a liquid-to-foam facial cleanser for makeup removal. The ingredients you've listed are indeed suitable for this type of product:

  • Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate are excellent mild surfactants that provide good foaming and cleansing.
  • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (makeupwash) is a great solubilizer for effectively removing makeup.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol can act as a humectant and preservative booster.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative.
  • Water is the base.

To create a liquid formula that pumps into foam, you'll need to balance the types and concentrations of your surfactants to achieve the desired foam quality and cleansing power, while ensuring mildness.

Regarding adding Essential Oils for fragrance, based on general cosmetic formulation guidelines and the previous advice you received, it is recommended to use Essential Oils (or any fragrance) at a low concentration in rinse-off facial products. A typical recommendation is not exceeding 1% of the total formula. Even if your skin is not sensitive to fragrance, keeping the percentage low minimizes potential for irritation on the delicate facial skin.

A conceptual starting point for your formula might look something like this (percentages are illustrative and need to be determined based on the specific raw materials and desired properties):

  • Surfactant Blend (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): Adjust the ratio and total percentage to achieve desired cleansing and foam. This will likely be the largest component after water.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol: A few percent.
  • Phenoxyethanol: Use according to the supplier's recommended usage rate (typically less than 1%).
  • Essential Oil: Up to 1%.
  • Water: The remaining percentage to reach 100%.

Remember that formulating requires testing. You will need to test the stability, pH, viscosity, foaming, cleansing effectiveness, and skin feel of your formula. Start with small batches and adjust the percentages of each ingredient until you achieve the desired result.

Using percentages allows you to easily scale your formula to any desired volume, as discussed in your previous interaction.

Good luck with your formulation!