Formulating Long-Lasting, Non-Sticky Lip Gloss

Asked by: staff On: March 03, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I formulate a lip gloss that is long-lasting, non-sticky, and non-drying?

Based on the understanding that the base is similar to lipstick but without wax, and the texture is controlled by liquid components, what are the key ingredients and how should their ratios be adjusted to achieve these specific properties?

Specifically, how do:

  • Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss)
  • Natural Oils (like Jojoba Oil (Clear - Deodorized), Fractionated Coconut Oil)
  • Isododecane (Germany)

impact the texture, longevity, and feel (stickiness, dryness)? What are the general guidelines for adjusting their proportions?

Answer

How to Make Long-Lasting, Non-Sticky, Non-Drying Lip Gloss

Based on the provided information, creating a lip gloss with a long-lasting, non-sticky, and non-drying texture involves adjusting the proportions of the base ingredients, particularly Squalene, natural oils, and Isododecane.

The base of lip gloss is similar to lipstick base but without wax, which is used to create hardness in lipsticks. The texture of lip gloss is primarily controlled by the balance of the liquid components.

Key Ingredients and Their Roles:

  • Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss): This ingredient is crucial for controlling the viscosity and hardness of the lip gloss. The forum discussion and user feedback suggest that increasing the amount of Squalene from the example formula (which resulted in an oily, quickly drying texture) may be necessary to achieve a more viscous, long-lasting, and less oily feel.
  • Natural Oils (such as Jojoba Oil (Clear - Deodorized), Fractionated Coconut Oil): These oils provide moisture to the lips. However, using too much natural oil can lead to a sticky texture. Selecting stable oils that do not go rancid easily is also important for shelf life.
  • Isododecane (Germany): This provides a light and thin feel to the lip gloss and helps with spreadability. Using too much Isododecane can result in a dry or rough feeling on the lips.
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): Included for its moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, helping to nourish the lips and prevent the oils from going rancid.

To achieve the desired texture (long-lasting, non-sticky, non-drying), you will need to experiment with the ratios of Squalene, natural oils, and Isododecane. Start with the example formula provided in the original post as a baseline and adjust:

  • If the lip gloss is too oily and dries too quickly, try increasing the percentage of Squalene.
  • If it feels too sticky, slightly reduce the amount of natural oils.
  • If it feels too dry or rough, slightly reduce Isododecane and/or slightly increase the natural oils (while monitoring for stickiness).

Other Components:

  • Colors: You can add color using pigments like Lake colors (e.g., FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake, FD&C Red No.3 AL Lake) and Iron Oxides (Yellow Iron Oxides EasyMix™, Red Iron Oxides EasyMix™, Black Iron Oxides EasyMix™). Lake colors and Iron Oxides provide intense color. Use them within the suggested range (typically 0.5-3%).
  • Shimmer: For sparkle and shine, add Mica Shimmer (e.g., Silver Sparkle Mica, Gold Glitter Mica, Red Pink Super Sparkle Mica). These can be used at higher percentages (1-10% or more depending on desired effect).
  • Titanium Dioxide (Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™): Can be added to lighten colors or provide opacity.

Mixing Method:

Unlike lipstick, lip gloss may not require heating to melt waxes. However, gentle warming can help blend the ingredients more easily and can also help sanitize the mixture. Combine the base ingredients (oils, Squalene, Isododecane). If warming, heat gently until combined, then add Vitamin E Acetate after removing from heat. Add desired colorants (Lake, Iron Oxides, Mica, Titanium Dioxide) to the liquid base and mix thoroughly to ensure even dispersion before pouring into containers.

Finding the ideal formula requires careful adjustment and testing of small batches to achieve the perfect balance of longevity, non-stickiness, and comfortable feel on the lips.