Formulating Matte Lipstick with Specific Ingredients

Asked by: thlalita On: October 05, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a matte lipstick using the following ingredients I purchased from MySkinRecipes:

  • Nylon-12
  • Squalene
  • LipidSoft
  • Silk Sericite Powder Matt
  • Matt Silica
  • Silk Mica Powder (Matt)

I am confused about which ingredients to use and how to use them to achieve a matte finish. Could you please provide guidance on the usage and method for these ingredients?

Answer

Creating Matte Lipstick with Your Ingredients

You have a great selection of ingredients for formulating a matte lipstick! Here's a breakdown of how each ingredient contributes to the final product and general guidance on their use:

Key Ingredients for Matte Finish

  • Matt Silica (e.g., MatteSilica 5™, MatteSilica 5S™): These are crucial for achieving a matte look. They have a porous structure that helps absorb excess oil, reducing shine on the lips. They also contribute to a smooth, powdery feel and help the lipstick glide on easily. Use these as your primary matting agent.
  • Nylon-12: This powder helps reduce shine and provides a pleasant creamy or powdery feel to the lipstick. It also aids in the smooth application and spreadability of the formula. It works well in combination with Silica to enhance the matte effect and texture.

Powders for Texture and Feel

  • Silk Sericite Powder Matt (e.g., Sericite Powder (6 Micron, Methicone Coated), Sericite Powder (CompactPro™)): These are fine powders that improve the texture and spreadability of the lipstick. They help the color apply evenly and contribute to a smooth, silky feel on the lips without adding shine, supporting the matte finish.
  • Silk Mica Powder (Matt) (e.g., Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated), Mica Powder (13 Micron, Matte, Silane Coated)): Similar to Sericite, Mica powders enhance the texture and application. The "Matt" versions are chosen to avoid adding shimmer or gloss, ensuring the final look remains matte. They help with smooth application and can contribute to a lightweight feel.

Emollients for Base and Comfort

  • LipidSoft (various types like LipidSoft™ CC, LipidSoft™ Palm, LipidSoft™ Moist, LipidSoft™ Lux, LipidSoft™ B): These are emollients that form the base of your lipstick. They provide moisture, help dissolve other ingredients (like pigments), and give the lipstick its smooth consistency and comfortable feel on the lips. For a matte lipstick, balancing the amount and type of LipidSoft is important to ensure it glides well without being too greasy or compromising the matte finish. LipidSoft Moist and Lux are often favored in lip products for their feel and spreadability.
  • Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss): While primarily known for adding shine in lip gloss, Squalene is a stable oil that can also function as an emollient, providing some moisture and slip. However, given its glossy property, you might need to use it sparingly or ensure sufficient matting powders are included to counteract the shine if a completely matte look is desired. Squalane (Olive) is a lighter emollient typically used in skincare.

General Usage Guidance

To incorporate these ingredients into your matte lipstick:

  1. Oil Phase: Combine your waxes, butters, and LipidSoft emollients (including Squalene/Squalane if using) and heat gently until melted.
  2. Powder Dispersion: Once the oil phase is melted, carefully add your powders (Matt Silica, Nylon-12, Sericite, Mica) and pigments. Use a high-shear mixer or blend thoroughly to ensure the powders are fully dispersed and there are no clumps. Proper dispersion is key for a smooth, even matte finish.
  3. Pouring: Pour the mixture into your lipstick mold before it cools and solidifies.

The exact percentages will require experimentation to achieve your desired level of matte finish, texture, and comfort. Start with recommended usage rates from the product descriptions as a guide. Increasing the percentage of Matt Silica and Nylon-12 will enhance the matte effect. Adjusting the type and amount of LipidSoft will impact the feel and glide.