Formulating Matte Liquid Lip Cream: Addressing Glossiness and Choosing Powders

ถามโดย: peony.morris เมื่อ: November 09, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

How can I formulate a matte liquid lip cream similar to NYX? My current formula, which includes `Squalene`, `White oil`, `Isododecane`, and `Hectorite Oil Gel`, results in a glossy finish. I was considering using `Silica` or `Kaolin`, and I also wanted to know about `Silicone Gel™ (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)`. What adjustments should I make to achieve a matte texture?

คำตอบ

Based on the conversation, here's a breakdown of how to achieve a matte liquid lip cream similar to NYX:

  1. Why your previous formula was glossy: Your formula contained high percentages of Squalene and White oil. These are non-volatile oils that stay on the lips and create a glossy finish, which is the opposite of what you want for a matte product.

  2. Key to a matte finish: Matte liquid lipsticks typically rely on:

    • Volatile Solvents (like Isododecane): These evaporate after application, leaving behind the solid components (pigments, powders, minimal film formers/oils).
    • Matte Powders: Ingredients specifically designed to absorb oil and provide a matte look and feel.
  3. Addressing your ingredients:

    • Squalene & White oil: As advised by the staff, these should be significantly reduced or removed and replaced with a volatile solvent like Isododecane.
    • Isododecane: This is a good volatile solvent for matte formulas. Increasing its percentage will help the product dry down to a matte finish.
    • Hectorite Oil Gel: This functions as a thickener and suspending agent, helping to create the creamy texture and keep powders dispersed. It's useful for the texture but doesn't create the matte finish itself.
    • Silicone Gel™ (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer): You asked about this. While unavailable, ingredients like this often contribute to the matte feel and film formation. However, you can achieve a matte finish by focusing on the volatile solvent and matte powders.
    • Silica & Kaolin: As the staff clarified, these are generally not the best ingredients for creating the primary matte effect in this type of formula.
    • Recommended Matte Powders: The staff recommended Silk Mica Powder ชนิดด้าน (Matte) or Silk Sericite Powder ชนิดด้านพิเศษ (Super-Matte). Using one of these at a sufficient percentage (e.g., 10-20% or more) is crucial for absorbing oil and providing the matte finish.

In summary: To get closer to a NYX-like matte liquid lip cream, you need to reduce the non-volatile oils (Squalene, White oil), increase the volatile solvent (Isododecane), and add a dedicated matte powder like Silk Mica Powder Matte or Silk Sericite Powder Super-Matte. You will need to experiment with the proportions to get the desired texture and matte level.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Isododecane (Germany)
Isododecane (Germany)
เครื่องสำอาง
Kaolin (China Clay, 200nm)
Kaolin (China Clay, 200nm)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)
Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)
เครื่องสำอาง
Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss)
Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss)
เครื่องสำอาง
MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)
MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Light (26cst)
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Light (26cst)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hectorite Gel™ (Mineral Oil Base)
Hectorite Gel™ (Mineral Oil Base)
เครื่องสำอาง
Sericite Powder (6 Micron, Matte, Methicone Coated)
Sericite Powder (6 Micron, Matte, Methicone Coated)
เครื่องสำอาง