Formulating Matte Liquid Lip Cream: Addressing Glossiness and Choosing Powders
Question
How can I formulate a matte liquid lip cream similar to NYX? My current formula, which includes `Squalene`, `White oil`, `Isododecane`, and `Hectorite Oil Gel`, results in a glossy finish. I was considering using `Silica` or `Kaolin`, and I also wanted to know about `Silicone Gel™ (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)`. What adjustments should I make to achieve a matte texture?
Answer
Based on the conversation, here's a breakdown of how to achieve a matte liquid lip cream similar to NYX:
Why your previous formula was glossy: Your formula contained high percentages of Squalene and White oil. These are non-volatile oils that stay on the lips and create a glossy finish, which is the opposite of what you want for a matte product.
Key to a matte finish: Matte liquid lipsticks typically rely on:
- Volatile Solvents (like Isododecane): These evaporate after application, leaving behind the solid components (pigments, powders, minimal film formers/oils).
- Matte Powders: Ingredients specifically designed to absorb oil and provide a matte look and feel.
Addressing your ingredients:
- Squalene & White oil: As advised by the staff, these should be significantly reduced or removed and replaced with a volatile solvent like Isododecane.
- Isododecane: This is a good volatile solvent for matte formulas. Increasing its percentage will help the product dry down to a matte finish.
- Hectorite Oil Gel: This functions as a thickener and suspending agent, helping to create the creamy texture and keep powders dispersed. It's useful for the texture but doesn't create the matte finish itself.
- Silicone Gel™ (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer): You asked about this. While unavailable, ingredients like this often contribute to the matte feel and film formation. However, you can achieve a matte finish by focusing on the volatile solvent and matte powders.
- Silica & Kaolin: As the staff clarified, these are generally not the best ingredients for creating the primary matte effect in this type of formula.
- Recommended Matte Powders: The staff recommended Silk Mica Powder ชนิดด้าน (Matte) or Silk Sericite Powder ชนิดด้านพิเศษ (Super-Matte). Using one of these at a sufficient percentage (e.g., 10-20% or more) is crucial for absorbing oil and providing the matte finish.
In summary: To get closer to a NYX-like matte liquid lip cream, you need to reduce the non-volatile oils (Squalene, White oil), increase the volatile solvent (Isododecane), and add a dedicated matte powder like Silk Mica Powder Matte or Silk Sericite Powder Super-Matte. You will need to experiment with the proportions to get the desired texture and matte level.