Revised Toner Formulation Plan

Based on your skin type (oily with occasional breakouts and PIH) and your current use of the Vitamin C E Ferulic Pre-Mix Kit, your revised plan to create two separate toners targeting specific concerns is a good strategy.

Morning Toner: Oil Control & Anti-Acne

Your proposed ingredients for the morning toner are suitable for controlling oiliness and addressing acne concerns:

• MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane): Known for its oil-controlling properties.
• Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): Helps reduce inflammation and oiliness.
• Zinc PCA: Effective in reducing sebum production and aiding skin healing.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Offers multiple benefits including reducing oiliness, improving pores, and anti-inflammatory effects.
• Azelaic Acid: Contributes to oil control and can help with breakouts and brightening.

This combination targets the root causes of oiliness and helps manage active acne.

Night Toner: Whitening & PIH

Your proposed ingredients for the night toner are appropriate for targeting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH):

• Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D): Works synergistically with Vitamin B3 to improve skin tone and reduce dark spots.
• Tranexamic Acid: A powerful ingredient for reducing melanin production and effective on blemishes and dark spots.
• Zinc PCA: Included again for its potential to aid skin healing and collagen production, which can help fade acne marks.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Continues to support skin barrier function and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.

This formula focuses on fading existing dark marks and promoting a more even complexion.

Adding Moisture

Given your oily skin type and the fact that your skin does not feel dry or peel after washing, it is advisable to follow the previous suggestion and start without adding extra moisturizing ingredients to these toners. This helps prevent the toners from feeling too heavy or potentially contributing to clogged pores. If you find your skin needs more hydration after using these formulations, you could consider adding a light, water-soluble humectant at a low concentration. Ingredients like Beta Glucan (specifically the water-soluble Oat Extract forms) are known for providing hydration and soothing benefits without being heavy.

Adding DMAE for Anti-Aging

You are interested in adding liquid DMAE for anti-aging benefits, specifically for wrinkles, as you are approaching 30. DMAE is recognized for its potential to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The liquid form with a non-acidic pH might be suitable for incorporation into a toner. However, it's important to be aware that DMAE can cause skin irritation, particularly on sensitive skin or at higher concentrations. If you decide to include it, it is recommended to start with a low concentration (e.g., 1-3%) and observe your skin's reaction before considering increasing the percentage. It is typically added during the final phase of formulation at temperatures below 40°C. You could potentially add DMAE to either your morning or night toner, or incorporate it into a separate anti-aging product in your routine.

Your plan to separate the toners based on function is a sensible approach for managing your specific skin concerns in conjunction with your existing Vitamin C serum. Remember to introduce new formulations gradually and observe how your skin responds.