Formulating Natural Oil Blend: Reducing Greasiness and Improving Absorption

ถามโดย: siwongkorn เมื่อ: August 04, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am formulating a natural oil blend for moisture and anti-aging. My current sample formula is Jojoba Oil 25%, Rosehip Oil 50%, and Squalane (Olive) 25%. I find that applying a high amount of oil on the skin makes it feel greasy. I would like to make the formula absorb faster and not leave a greasy residue on the skin.

I have the following questions:

  1. Which ingredients should I add to make the formula absorb quickly and not leave a greasy feel on the skin?
  2. Will adding Ethoxydiglycol help with the texture and absorption? If so, what percentage is suitable for sensitive facial skin (leave-on product)?
  3. Do I need to add a preservative if some of the natural oils already contain Rosemary extract as a natural antioxidant?
  4. Based on my sample formula (Jojoba 25%, Rosehip 50%, Squalane 25%), how should I adjust the percentages or add other ingredients to achieve a fast-absorbing, non-greasy finish without leaving a shine on the skin? What percentages would you recommend for the added ingredients?

คำตอบ

Natural Oil Blend Formulation Advice

You are creating a natural oil blend focused on moisture and anti-aging. It's common for pure oil blends to feel heavy or leave a greasy residue, as noted in the forum replies. The key to achieving a faster-absorbing, less greasy feel is selecting oils and emollients with lighter textures and potentially incorporating ingredients that improve spreadability and absorption.

1. Which ingredients help with fast absorption and a non-greasy feel?

To make your oil blend absorb faster and feel less greasy, you should incorporate oils or emollients known for their light, dry feel.

  • Squalane (Olive): This is an excellent choice, already present in your formula. It is very similar to the skin's natural sebum, absorbs quickly, and provides moisture without feeling greasy. Increasing the percentage of Squalane in your blend can significantly improve the skin feel.
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: This oil is lightweight, easily absorbed, and leaves a smooth, non-greasy feel. It's a good option to include or increase in your formula.
  • Hemisqualane (C13-15 Alkane): A lighter, sugarcane-derived version of Squalane, it offers a very light, silky texture and quick absorption without residue. This is an excellent ingredient for reducing greasiness.
  • LipidSoft™ B (Dibutyl Adipate): While not a natural oil, this emollient ester is known for its light, dry feel, fast spreading, and quick absorption. It can significantly improve the texture of oil blends.
  • Dioctyl Adipate (DOA): Another emollient ester that can contribute to a lighter feel and better spreadability in oil formulations.

Oils like Jojoba Oil and Rose Hip Oil, while beneficial for skin, can feel heavier, especially Rose Hip Oil due to its fatty acid profile. Balancing these with lighter options is crucial for the desired feel.

2. Will Ethoxydiglycol help? What percentage for sensitive skin?

Ethoxydiglycol is primarily a solvent and carrier (penetration enhancer). Its main function is to help dissolve ingredients and carry them deeper into the skin.

  • Will it help with feel? It might indirectly help actives penetrate faster, but it doesn't inherently make the oil itself feel less greasy or absorb faster in the way a lightweight emollient does. Its role is more about ingredient delivery.
  • Percentage for sensitive skin: Ethoxydiglycol can increase the penetration of all ingredients in the formula, which might potentially increase irritation for sensitive skin, especially if other active ingredients are present. The recommended usage rate for leave-on skin products is not more than 2.6%. For sensitive skin, it would be advisable to start with a very low percentage (e.g., 0.5% - 1%) or avoid it altogether if sensitivity is a major concern, focusing instead on emollients that improve feel directly.

3. Is a preservative needed if using Rosemary as an antioxidant?

  • No, a traditional preservative is generally not needed for a purely oil-based formula.
  • Natural oils do not contain water, which is necessary for the growth of bacteria, fungi, and mold.
  • Rosemary extract (Pure-Rosmarinic90™) acts as an antioxidant. Its purpose is to prevent the oils in your blend from oxidizing and going rancid, extending the shelf life of the oils themselves. It does not protect against microbial contamination.
  • You only need a broad-spectrum preservative, such as Mild Preserved™ COS, if your formula contains a water phase or if water is likely to be introduced during use (e.g., if it's stored in a humid environment or water comes into contact with the product). For a pure oil blend, an antioxidant is sufficient for stability against rancidity.

4. Advice on your sample formula (Jojoba 25%, Rosehip 50%, Squalane 25%)

Your current formula uses a high percentage of Rose Hip Oil (50%) and Jojoba Oil (25%), both of which can contribute to a heavier feel. Squalane (25%) is good for absorption, but its percentage is lower than the heavier oils.

To make this blend feel lighter and absorb faster, consider modifying the percentages and potentially adding other lightweight emollients:

  • Increase Squalane: Increase the percentage of Squalane (Olive) to 30-40% or even higher.
  • Reduce Heavier Oils: Decrease the percentage of Rose Hip Oil and/or Jojoba Oil.
  • Add Lighter Emollients: Incorporate Fractionated Coconut Oil, Hemisqualane (C13-15 Alkane), LipidSoft™ B (Dibutyl Adipate), or Dioctyl Adipate (DOA) into the formula. These ingredients are specifically designed to provide a light, non-greasy feel.
  • Add Antioxidant: Include Pure-Rosmarinic90™ (Rosemary Extract) in the range of 0.1-0.2% to help prevent the oils from going rancid.

Example of a modified approach (percentages are suggestions, adjust based on testing):

  • Squalane (Olive): 30-40%
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil or Hemisqualane: 20-30%
  • Jojoba Oil: 10-20%
  • Rose Hip Oil: 20-30%
  • LipidSoft™ B or Dioctyl Adipate: 5-10% (Optional, for extra lightness)
  • Pure-Rosmarinic90™ (Rosemary Extract): 0.1-0.2% (As an antioxidant)

Experimenting with different percentages of these lighter ingredients will help you find the balance that provides the desired moisturizing and anti-aging benefits with a fast-absorbing, non-greasy finish.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
เครื่องสำอาง
Squalane (Olive)
Squalane (Olive)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
เครื่องสำอาง
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Fractionated Coconut Oil
เครื่องสำอาง
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
เครื่องสำอาง
Dioctyl Adipate (DOA)
Dioctyl Adipate (DOA)
เครื่องสำอาง
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin)
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin)
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ B (Dibutyl adipate)
LipidSoft™ B (Dibutyl adipate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved™ COS (pH 2-8, Broad Spectrum, No-Odor)
Mild Preserved™ COS (pH 2-8, Broad Spectrum, No-Odor)
เครื่องสำอาง
C13-15 Alkane
C13-15 Alkane
เครื่องสำอาง