Formulating Night Cream & Mask: Texture, Rancidity, and Anti-Aging Ingredients

Asked by: fon21052517 On: October 02, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

# Formulation Questions

I have several questions regarding cosmetic formulation:

1. How can I formulate a night cream that is lightweight, easily absorbed, and has an opaque gel texture?
2. What is the function of "Aquajel" in the Le Luxe face mask, given that the ingredients include Aqua and Polyacrylamide?
3. Are there other thickeners besides the ones mentioned that can help create an opaque gel texture?
4. How can I prevent rancidity in a cream formulation that contains 15% oil?
5. What are some suitable active ingredients for skin aged 40 and above, specifically targeting concerns like wrinkles, freckles, and melasma?

Answer

Recommendations for Skin Care Formulation

1. Choosing Lightweight Opaque Gel Thickeners for Night Cream

To create a lightweight, easily absorbed night cream with an opaque gel texture, you can combine ingredients. While many gelling agents produce clear gels, incorporating fatty alcohols like Cetyl Alcohol (Product ID: 173) can provide opacity and contribute to a creamy, soft feel without being heavy. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Product ID: 9589) is a good thickener that works without heat and creates a gel texture. Combining it with a small amount of a lightweight oil or ester and Cetyl Alcohol could help achieve the desired lightweight, opaque, and easily absorbed texture. Mineral Oil Gel (Product ID: 2158) is another option if you are formulating an oil-based gel or incorporating an oil phase, providing a gelled, opaque oil texture.

2. Function of "Aquajel" in Le Luxe Face Mask

Based on the ingredient list you provided for the Le Luxe face mask, which includes Aqua and Polyacrylamide, the term "Aquajel" likely refers to the gel-like texture of the product. This texture is primarily created by Polyacrylamide, which acts as a gelling agent and thickener to provide the stable gel consistency of the mask. Other ingredients like emulsifiers and emollients also contribute to the overall texture and feel.

3. Other Opaque Gel Thickeners

In addition to the options mentioned above, some gelling agents, when combined with other ingredients like oils or fatty alcohols in a formula, can result in an opaque texture. You might consider ingredients that create a creamy gel-like appearance:

  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Product ID: 9589), when used at an appropriate concentration and combined with compatible oils or emollients, can provide an opaque and smooth texture.
  • Cetyl Alcohol (Product ID: 173) is a fatty alcohol that helps increase the viscosity and opacity of emulsion formulas, and it can be used in conjunction with gelling agents to modify the texture.

4. Preventing Rancidity in Night Cream and Ingredients for 40+ Skin

  • Rancidity Issue: Rancidity in cream formulas, especially those containing oils (your formula has 15% oil), is usually caused by the oxidation of the oil phase. To prevent this, you should add an antioxidant to the oil phase. Examples of suitable antioxidants for oils include Propyl Gallate (Product ID: 35199) or Vitamin F Forte (Product ID: 33844). Additionally, choosing more stable oils that are less prone to oxidation, such as Jojoba Oil (Product ID: 87) or Moringa Oil (Product ID: 640), can also help extend the shelf life and prevent rancidity. Ensure your preservative system is effective, but preservatives primarily prevent microbial growth, not oil oxidation.
  • Ingredients for 40+ Skin (Wrinkles, Freckles/Melasma): For mature skin with concerns like wrinkles, freckles, and melasma, the formula should include active ingredients known for their anti-aging and skin brightening properties. Consider incorporating ingredients such as:
    • For Wrinkles: Retinal (e.g., Retinal-EZ™ - Product ID: 9549), Peptides (e.g., Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 - Product ID: 45), and Hyaluronic Acid (using different molecular sizes like Small - Product ID: 105, Standard - Product ID: 79, and Large - Product ID: 1351 for multi-level hydration).
    • For Freckles and Melasma: Vitamin C derivatives (such as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid - Product ID: 833 or Ascorbyl Glucoside - Product ID: 265) and HR-White™ (4-Hexylresorcinol - Product ID: 125151).
    • Other Beneficial Ingredients: Antioxidants like Astaxanthin (Product ID: 10823), and natural extracts such as Wild Yam Extract (Product ID: 1087), Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (Product ID: 993), Biotin (Product ID: 943), and Portulaca Extract (Product ID: 31028) can also support skin health and appearance.

It is important to research and use the appropriate concentration and usage guidelines for each ingredient and consider ingredient compatibility in your formulation.