Formulation Guidance for Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Phenylethyl Resorcinol in a Hada-Type Formula

Yes, you can dissolve both Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Perfect-C™) and Phenylethyl Resorcinol in Ultra Solve™.

• Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is oil-soluble.
• Phenylethyl Resorcinol is oil-soluble.
• Ultra Solve™ is a highly effective solvent and water-oil binder designed to dissolve oils and oil-soluble ingredients and disperse them into water.

To incorporate these oil-soluble actives into a water-based formula like a Hada type, you would typically:

1. Dissolve the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Phenylethyl Resorcinol in Ultra Solve™.
2. Add this mixture to the water phase of your formula.
3. Mix thoroughly until dispersed. Ultra Solve™ will act as the solubilizer, allowing the oil-soluble components to remain stable within the water base.

Regarding the use of a penetration enhancer:

While Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate has good inherent skin absorption due to its oil solubility, adding a penetration enhancer can potentially help improve the delivery and absorption of both oil-soluble actives into the skin, especially in a water-dominant formulation. It is not strictly required but can be a beneficial addition to enhance the efficacy of the actives.

Important Formulation Notes:

• pH: The optimal pH for Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is 5.0-5.5 (must be below 6.0), while Phenylethyl Resorcinol is most stable at pH 4-5. You will need to formulate within a pH range that supports the stability of both actives, likely between 4.5 and 5.5, and perform stability testing.
• Incompatibilities: Be aware of potential incompatibilities mentioned in the product descriptions, such as avoiding Vitamin B3 and Zinc PCA with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, and avoiding Carbomer, Carbopol, PEG-400, Amino Acids, Urea, or protein groups with Phenylethyl Resorcinol.