Formulating Oil-Soluble Tocotrienols in an Oil-Free Cream
Question
I want to make a cream that contains Tocotrienols. Tocotrienols are oil-soluble, but I don't want to include oil in the formula because I have oily skin.
I would like to know if other ingredients can be used as solvents instead of oil, such as:
- Ethoxydiglycol
- Butylene Glycol
- 1,3-Propanediol
Can these substitute oil for dissolving Tocotrienols? If not, could you recommend alternatives?
Answer
Using Tocotrienols in an Oil-Free Cream
You're right that Tocotrienols are oil-soluble, which makes incorporating them into an oil-free cream challenging. You want to avoid traditional oils because of oily skin, which is understandable.
Let's look at the solvents you mentioned:
- Butylene Glycol and 1,3-Propanediol are primarily water-soluble solvents and humectants. While useful in many formulations, they are generally not effective at dissolving oil-soluble ingredients like Tocotrienols.
- Ethoxydiglycol is a more versatile solvent and carrier. It can dissolve a wider range of ingredients, including some oil-soluble ones, and is often used to help incorporate actives into formulations or reduce the amount of traditional oil needed. It might be able to help disperse or partially dissolve Tocotrienols in a system with minimal or no traditional oil, but achieving full, stable solubility might still require a specialized solubilizer designed for oil-soluble actives in a water-based or low-oil system.
Alternatives and Considerations:
Since Tocotrienols are inherently oil-soluble, completely avoiding an oil phase while ensuring stability and efficacy is difficult. Here are some approaches:
- Use a Specialized Solubilizer: Look for cosmetic solubilizers specifically designed to incorporate oil-soluble ingredients into water-based or low-oil formulations without creating a greasy feel. These are different from standard emulsifiers.
- Minimal Use of Very Light Oils: If complete oil-freedom isn't strictly necessary, consider using a very small percentage of an extremely light, non-greasy ester oil or silicone fluid that can help dissolve the Tocotrienols without contributing significantly to oiliness.
- Emulsion System: Formulating a light emulsion (like a lotion or fluid cream) with a minimal oil phase using appropriate emulsifiers for oily skin types is often the most practical way to incorporate oil-soluble actives like Tocotrienols stably.
In summary, while Ethoxydiglycol is a better candidate than Butylene Glycol or 1,3-Propanediol for helping to incorporate Tocotrienols, it may not be sufficient on its own for full dissolution in a completely oil-free system. You might need a specialized solubilizer or a low-oil emulsion approach.
Remember that Tocotrienols are sensitive to heat and light, so proper formulation and packaging are crucial for stability.
Related Products Mentioned
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Butylene Glycol