Formulating Pearly Facial Foam Cleanser

Question

I would like to ask for advice on how to formulate a pearly facial foam cleanser. What are the key components needed, such as surfactants, pearling agents (like emulPearl™ or Glyceryl Distearate), and thickeners (like FaceFoam-LC™)? What are the formulation tips regarding combining surfactants, incorporating the pearling agent (including heating requirements), adding thickeners, ensuring compatibility, and adjusting the final pH (e.g., 5.5-6.5)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Guidance for Formulating Pearly Facial Foam Cleanser

To create a pearly facial foam cleanser, you will primarily need a blend of surfactants for cleansing and foaming, and a pearling agent to achieve the desired visual effect.

Key Components:

Surfactants: These are the main cleansing agents. A combination of different types often provides better performance and mildness. Examples include:
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A gentle amphoteric surfactant that boosts foam.
- IseFoam™ (Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate): A gentle anionic surfactant known for good foam.
- Cond-Foam™ (Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate): A gentle anionic surfactant with conditioning properties.
- Sophorolipid (Natural Surfactant): A natural, gentle surfactant.
- Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate: A gentle anionic surfactant that also acts as a foam booster and stabilizer.
Pearling Agent: This ingredient provides the characteristic pearly or iridescent appearance. A common choice is Glycol Distearate, available as emulPearl™. Glyceryl Distearate can also be used.
Thickener (Optional but Recommended): To achieve the desired viscosity and stability for a foam cleanser, a thickener compatible with surfactants is often used. FaceFoam-LC™ is an example of a crystal thickener specifically for surfactants.

Formulation Tips:

Combine primary surfactants (like Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate) with secondary surfactants (like Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Sophorolipid) to balance cleansing power, foam quality, and mildness.
To incorporate the pearling agent like emulPearl™ or Glyceryl Distearate, it typically needs to be heated and mixed into the oil phase or surfactant blend until dissolved (around 60-80°C for emulPearl™) before being incorporated into the rest of the formula.
Add the thickener (like FaceFoam-LC™) to the water phase and mix until dispersed or dissolved according to the product's instructions.
Ensure all ingredients are compatible and mix thoroughly at each step.
Adjust the pH of the final formula to the optimal range for the chosen surfactants and skin compatibility (typically slightly acidic, around pH 5.5-6.5 for facial cleansers).

Remember to start with a basic formula structure and adjust the percentages of each component based on desired foam, cleansing feel, viscosity, and pearly effect.