Formulating Powder Face Wash with Amino Wash: Adding Exfoliants, Moisturizers, and Acne Treatments

ถามโดย: insawang.ch เมื่อ: July 09, 2019 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am formulating a powder face wash using Amino Wash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) and would like to know which of the following ingredients can be effectively and cost-efficiently combined with it to achieve specific results:

1. For Exfoliation and Brightening:

I intend to use Protease Enzyme as the primary exfoliant. Can I also use it with:

  • Papaya Enzyme
  • Pineapple Enzyme

And can the following be used in the formula? If yes, please recommend the percentage.

  • Betaine Salicylate
  • Glycolic Acid

2. For Moisturization (to provide moisture after washing):

Can I expect moisturizing results from these ingredients, and which are suitable for the formula? Which ones should not be used together?

  • Goat Milk Powder
  • Hydrolyzed Milk Protein
  • Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
  • Hydroxyethyl Urea

3. For Reducing Acne or Speeding up Acne Healing:

Which of the following ingredients can help with these issues, which one do you recommend, what percentage should I use, and do they need to be used with any other specific ingredients?

  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid power
  • Capryloyl Salicylic Acid LHA power
  • Complex Salicylic Acid power

4. Additional Recommendations:

Besides the ingredients mentioned above, please recommend any other suitable ingredients that were not listed if you believe they would be better or more cost-effective.

คำตอบ

Powder Face Wash Formulation with Amino Wash

Amino Wash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) is a gentle, amino acid-derived anionic surfactant suitable for facial cleansers, providing a soft feel and pleasant foam at a skin-friendly pH of 5-6.

Exfoliation and Brightening

You are interested in using Protease Enzyme as the primary exfoliant and want to know about Papaya Enzyme, Pineapple Enzyme, Betaine Salicylate, and Glycolic Acid.

  • Protease Enzyme (Powder): This is an excellent choice for a powder face wash. It works by breaking down proteins, effectively exfoliating dead skin cells without requiring a highly acidic pH like AHAs. It is suitable for powder formulas and works best in a pH range of 5.5-8.5, which is compatible with Amino Wash.
    • Recommended Usage: 0.1-1% (0.5% is often recommended for effectiveness without irritation).
  • Papaya Enzyme (Papain) (Powder): Papain is also an effective enzymatic exfoliant that works at a neutral pH (5.5-7.0), making it compatible with Protease Enzyme and Amino Wash. It is suitable for powder cleansers.
    • Recommended Usage: 0.1-1.5% (1% is often recommended).
  • Pineapple Enzyme (Bromelain) (Powder): Similar to Papain, Bromelain is an enzyme that exfoliates and works well within a pH range of 5.0-8.0. It can be combined with Protease and Papain for enhanced enzymatic exfoliation in your powder wash.
    • Recommended Usage: 1.0-2.5% (1.5-2% is often recommended).

Compatibility of Enzymes: Protease, Papain, and Bromelain can be effectively used together in a powder face wash. They all function within a similar, skin-friendly pH range that is compatible with Amino Wash, providing synergistic exfoliation.

  • Betaine Salicylate: This is an exfoliant that combines Salicylic Acid and Betaine, offering exfoliation with some moisturizing properties. It is water-soluble but requires the formula pH to be adjusted to 3.8-4.2 for full solubility and effectiveness. While it can be used in a rinse-off product, achieving its optimal pH for exfoliation might reduce the activity of the enzymes (which prefer a higher pH) and could potentially increase irritation compared to using enzymes alone in the pH 5-6 range of Amino Wash.
    • Recommended Usage (if used): 1-4% (equivalent to 0.5-2% Salicylic Acid).
  • Glycolic Acid (Powder): Glycolic Acid is a potent AHA exfoliant that requires a low pH (ideally below 4.0) to be effective. Including it in a powder wash designed to work at the neutral pH of Amino Wash and enzymes would significantly reduce its exfoliation efficacy. Furthermore, combining a strong acid like Glycolic Acid with enzymes and surfactants can be challenging for formulation stability and might increase the risk of skin irritation in a wash-off product.

Conclusion for Exfoliation: For a powder face wash based on Amino Wash, using a combination of Protease Enzyme, Papaya Enzyme, and Pineapple Enzyme is highly effective and compatible, working optimally within the natural pH range of the cleanser. While Betaine Salicylate and Glycolic Acid are exfoliants, their optimal pH ranges are lower than the enzymes and Amino Wash, making them less ideal for this specific formulation goal focused on enzyme activity.

Moisturization

You asked if Goat Milk Powder, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour (Colloidal Oatmeal), and Hydroxyethyl Urea can provide moisture after washing and which are suitable.

  • Goat Milk Powder: Based on the available information, I cannot confirm the specific moisturizing benefits or suitability of Goat Milk Powder in this type of cosmetic formulation.
  • Hydrolyzed Milk Protein: Similarly, I do not have detailed information on the moisturizing properties or suitability of Hydrolyzed Milk Protein for a powder face wash from the available data.
  • Avena Sativa Kernel Flour (Colloidal Oatmeal): Colloidal Oatmeal is well-known for its soothing and moisturizing properties due to components like Beta-Glucan and starches that form a protective barrier. It is available as a fine powder that disperses in water, making it suitable for a powder face wash. It can help reduce irritation and provide a moisturizing feel after rinsing.
    • Recommended Usage: 1-5% (1-2% is often recommended).
  • Hydroxyethyl Urea: This ingredient is a highly effective moisturizer that provides long-lasting hydration and has a light, non-sticky feel. It is water-soluble and available in powder form, making it suitable for inclusion in a powder face wash to help retain skin moisture after washing.
    • Recommended Usage: 1-10% (5% is often recommended).

Compatibility of Moisturizers: Colloidal Oatmeal and Hydroxyethyl Urea are compatible and can be used together in your powder face wash to enhance moisturizing and soothing benefits.

Acne Treatment

You are interested in Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA), and Complex Salicylic Acid for reducing acne and clogged pores.

  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): Products like ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) are forms of Salicylic Acid encapsulated to be water-soluble and provide a timed release of the active ingredient. This makes them suitable for rinse-off products like a powder face wash, helping to dissolve clogged pores and offering antiseptic properties.
    • Recommended Usage: 1-5% (delivers 0.4-2% Salicylic Acid).
  • Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) (Powder): LHA is a derivative of Salicylic Acid known for gentle exfoliation and effectiveness against acne. However, it is typically mixed in the oil phase and requires heating to dissolve. This makes it less practical for a simple powder face wash that is mixed with water just before use.
  • Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): This is another water-soluble powder form of Salicylic Acid (40% active) that dissolves directly in water. It provides the standard benefits of Salicylic Acid for dissolving clogged pores and exfoliation and is suitable for a powder face wash.
    • Recommended Usage: 1-5% (delivers 0.4-2% Salicylic Acid).

Conclusion for Acne Treatment: For a powder face wash, Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) are the most suitable options from your list. They are water-soluble powder forms that effectively address acne and clogged pores. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) is less suitable due to its oil solubility. You can use either Complex Salicylic Acid or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid at a recommended rate of 1-5%.

Additional Recommendations

Based on your goals and the suitability for a powder format, the ingredients you listed cover the key functions well. Focusing on the recommended enzyme combination for exfoliation, Colloidal Oatmeal and Hydroxyethyl Urea for moisturization, and a water-soluble Salicylic Acid powder for acne treatment provides a comprehensive approach for your powder face wash.

Here is a summary of recommended ingredients and their usage ranges for your powder face wash formulation:

  • Base Cleanser: Amino Wash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) - 5-25%
  • Exfoliation (Choose one or a combination):
    • Protease Enzyme (Powder): 0.1-1%
    • Papaya Enzyme (Papain) (Powder): 0.1-1.5%
    • Pineapple Enzyme (Bromelain) (Powder): 1.0-2.5%
  • Moisturization:
    • Avena Sativa Kernel Flour (Colloidal Oatmeal): 1-5%
    • Hydroxyethyl Urea (Powder form): 1-10%
  • Acne Treatment:
    • Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): 1-5%
    • OR ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): 1-5%

These ingredients are generally compatible in a powder format and when reconstituted with water for use. Ensure proper mixing and storage conditions as recommended for each ingredient, especially the enzymes which are sensitive to heat and moisture.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Fine)
AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Fine)
เครื่องสำอาง
HYDRO-UREA® Liquid
HYDRO-UREA® Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Protease Enzyme
Protease Enzyme
เครื่องสำอาง
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pineapple Enzyme (Bromelain)
Pineapple Enzyme (Bromelain)
เครื่องสำอาง
SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate)
SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Aveenoat™ (Ultra-Fine Oatmeal)
Aveenoat™ (Ultra-Fine Oatmeal)
เครื่องสำอาง
Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble)
Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble)
ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง