Formulating Retinaldehyde in Oil: Max Percentage and Oil Base
คำถาม
Based on the provided link [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/6979-encapsulated-retinal-retinaldehyde.html:11da2n6u]Retinol[/url:11da2n6u], if I want to create a pure [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/6979-encapsulated-retinal-retinaldehyde.html:11da2n6u]Retinol[/url:11da2n6u] in oil formula, what is the maximum percentage of [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8่%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/6979-encapsulated-retinal-retinaldehyde.html:11da2n6u]Retinol[/url:11da2n6u] that can be included (according to FDA permission)? Which non-comedogenic plain oil base should I choose to mix it with, and in what proportion? I want a plain oil base because I only want to observe the effect of the [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8่%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8้%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/6979-encapsulated-retinal-retinaldehyde.html:11da2n6u]Retinol[/url:11da2n6u] itself (for research purposes). Please advise on which oil base to choose for mixing. Thank you.
คำตอบ
Creating an Oil-Based Formulation with Retinaldehyde
You're looking to create a simple oil-based formulation for research using a Vitamin A derivative. Based on the product link you provided, you are referring to Retinal-EZ™ (Encapsulated Water Dispersible Retinal), which contains Retinaldehyde, not Retinol.
It's important to note that Retinal-EZ™ is designed to be water-dispersible, not oil-soluble. This means creating a simple, clear solution in a pure oil base might not be achievable. It is intended to be mixed directly into water-based formulas. However, since the product itself contains Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, you might be able to disperse it in a suitable oil base for your research, though homogeneity and stability might differ compared to a water-based system or an emulsion.
Maximum Usage Percentage
The Retinal-EZ™ product contains 2.0% active Retinal. The supplier recommends a usage rate of 1-5% of the Retinal-EZ™ product in a formula.
For cosmetic products in Thailand, the maximum allowed concentration of active Retinaldehyde is 0.05%. To achieve this concentration using Retinal-EZ™, you would use 2.5% of the Retinal-EZ™ product (since 2.5% of 2.0% is 0.05%).
For your research purposes, you might choose to use a higher concentration up to the supplier's recommended maximum of 5% of the Retinal-EZ™ product (which would yield 0.1% active Retinal), but be aware that this exceeds the Thai FDA limit for commercial products.
Suitable Non-Comedogenic Oil Base
For a non-comedogenic oil base suitable for a simple formulation, Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is a good option. It is lightweight, easily absorbed, and non-comedogenic. It is also present in the INCI list of Retinal-EZ™, making it a compatible carrier. Mineral Oil (Very Light) is another non-comedogenic option.
Simple Formulation Example
Given that Retinal-EZ™ is water-dispersible, a simple mixture in oil will likely be a dispersion rather than a true solution. For a basic research formulation using Fractionated Coconut Oil as the base:
Option 1 (Meeting Thai FDA active limit):
- Retinal-EZ™: 2.5%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 97.5%
Option 2 (Using supplier's maximum recommended product rate):
- Retinal-EZ™: 5.0%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 95.0%
Mixing Method: Gently mix the Retinal-EZ™ into the chosen oil base. Avoid heating the mixture, as Retinaldehyde is sensitive to heat.
Important Considerations:
- Retinaldehyde is sensitive to light and air. Store the final product in an opaque, airtight container.
- Consider adding antioxidants like Vitamin E or BHT, and potentially a UV filter, to help stabilize the Retinaldehyde, as suggested in the Retinal-EZ™ description (though the description mentions Protec™ products which are specific stabilizers). For a simple research formula, minimizing components might be desired, but stability should be considered for accurate results.
- Since Retinal-EZ™ is water-dispersible, this simple oil mixture might not be perfectly stable or homogeneous over time compared to an emulsified system.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Retinal-EZ™ (Encapsulated Water Dispersible Retinal)