Improving Your Vitamin C Ester and Rosehip Oil Formulation

You are experiencing oiliness and slow absorption with your current mixture of Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate) and rosehip oil. This is common as both ingredients are oils. To improve the texture and absorption, you would need to create an emulsion (like a cream or lotion) rather than just a simple oil blend.

Adding Silky Serum Base is not suitable for this purpose because it cannot bind oils effectively and your mixture would likely separate, as noted in the previous reply. Silky Serum Base is designed for water-based serums without oil.

Recommended Bases/Emulsifiers

To create a lighter, faster-absorbing product containing your oil-soluble Vitamin C Ester and rosehip oil, consider using an emulsifier to create an oil-in-water emulsion:

• Light Cream Maker™: This is a good option as it can emulsify oil into a cream or lotion texture without needing heat. It can handle up to 20% oil in the formula, which should be sufficient for your Vitamin C Ester and rosehip oil blend. The resulting texture is light and absorbs well.
• Silky Serum Base Plus: This base can coordinate oils (up to 30% total oil/silicone phase) and creates a light, fast-absorbing serum texture. However, it requires a significant water phase (at least 60%) to form a stable emulsion. You would need to add water to your oil mixture and incorporate Silky Serum Base Plus to create this type of serum.

Using a gel maker like Pro Polymer™ or Pro Polymer™ Silk is generally less ideal for incorporating a high percentage of oil compared to dedicated emulsifiers like Light Cream Maker™.

Adding Water-Soluble Ingredients

Regarding adding water-soluble ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, GlucoBright™, and Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3), these ingredients are water-soluble and can be incorporated into the water phase if you create an emulsion using a base like Light Cream Maker™ or Silky Serum Base Plus.

IMPORTANT INCOMPATIBILITY: It is crucial to note that Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate) should not be used in the same formula as Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide). Mixing them can lead to a reaction that reduces the effectiveness of both ingredients and may cause skin irritation. Since you are currently mixing them separately, this is the correct approach. You should continue to keep your oil-based Vitamin C Ester/rosehip oil product separate from a water-based product containing Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin, and GlucoBright.

Penetration Enhancers

You asked about "Transdermal" substances or penetration enhancers. These ingredients help active compounds penetrate the skin more effectively. We have ingredients available that serve this purpose, such as:

• Tetrahydropiperine: A natural penetration enhancer.
• TransMoist™: Helps ingredients absorb faster and provides moisturization.
• Nano-TXA™: This is a penetration base specifically for water-soluble active ingredients, designed to enhance their delivery into the skin. It would be suitable for use with Alpha Arbutin, GlucoBright, and Vitamin B3 in a water-based formula, but not with your oil-based Vitamin C Ester and rosehip oil mixture.

These penetration enhancers can be added to the appropriate phase (oil or water) of your formulation to potentially boost the effectiveness of the active ingredients in that phase.