Formulating Serum/Gel with Hydro-White, GlyciWhite, Copper Peptide

Asked by: kanyarach On: February 20, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to formulate a serum or gel using Hydro-White (1%), GlyciWhite (5%), Copper Peptide (1%), and a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base (93%). Is this combination possible? What additional ingredients or steps are necessary to ensure the product's safety, stability, and effectiveness, especially regarding preservation, mixing temperatures for the different actives, and pH?

Answer

Formulation Review: Hydro-White, GlyciWhite, Copper Peptide in Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base

Your proposed formulation using Hydro-White (1%), GlyciWhite (5%), Copper Peptide (1%), and Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base (93%) is a good starting point for a serum or gel product. The percentages add up correctly, and the ingredients are generally compatible with a water-based gel system.

However, there are a few crucial points to address to ensure the safety, stability, and efficacy of your product:

  • Preservation is Essential: The Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base is preservative-free. Water-based formulations are highly susceptible to microbial contamination. You must incorporate a suitable broad-spectrum preservative system at the recommended usage rate to prevent bacterial, mold, and yeast growth and ensure the product is safe for use and has a reasonable shelf life.
  • Mixing Procedure & Temperature:
    • Hydro-White is a powder that requires heat (60-80°C) to dissolve completely.
    • GlyciWhite is also a powder that dissolves in water but should avoid temperatures above 60°C.
    • Copper Peptide (1000ppm Solution) must be added in the final step when the mixture's temperature is below 40°C to maintain its stability.
    • A recommended approach is to dissolve Hydro-White in a small amount of water or the heated base (if compatible), cool it below 60°C, then dissolve GlyciWhite. Once both are fully dissolved and the mixture is below 40°C, combine with the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and finally add the Copper Peptide solution. Ensure thorough mixing after each addition.
  • pH Adjustment: Copper Peptide is most stable and effective within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.4. After mixing all ingredients, you must check the final pH of your formulation and adjust it if necessary using a suitable acid (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution) or base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution).
  • Preventing Discoloration: The supplier information for Hydro-White suggests adding an antioxidant like ActiveProtec OX (at 1%) to help prevent potential discoloration of the product over time. This is a good practice for formulations containing ingredients prone to oxidation.

In summary, while the combination of active ingredients is promising, you absolutely need to add a preservative system and carefully manage the mixing temperature and final pH to create a stable, safe, and effective product. Consider adding an antioxidant for better long-term stability.