Formulating Serum/Gel with Pro Polymer Silk: White Texture, PE-1 Aqua, and Zinc PCA

Question

I am formulating a serum/gel using Pro Polymer Silk and PE-1 Aqua. I have some questions regarding the formulation process and the resulting texture: Can Pro Polymer Silk be mixed by prolonged blending instead of alternating stirring and refrigeration? When is the best time to add Zinc PCA to the formula, and how does it affect the gel's viscosity? My formula includes PE-1 Aqua. Why does the texture turn white when using a Gel Maker like Pro Polymer Silk? Would adding Powder Cream help achieve a white texture, and are there potential issues with adding powders to this type of liquid/gel formula, such as settling?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Regarding your additional questions about using Pro Polymer Silk and achieving a white texture:

Mixing Pro Polymer Silk: You can use prolonged blending instead of alternating between stirring and refrigeration. However, it will take approximately 50% longer than with regular Pro Polymer.
Adding Zinc PCA: You can add Zinc PCA before or after the gel is formed with Pro Polymer Silk. Zinc PCA will slightly thin the gel. If you want the same viscosity, you might consider adding a little more Pro Polymer Silk to compensate, or if the increased fluidity is acceptable, no adjustment is needed.
Achieving White Texture: Your formula includes PE-1 Aqua, which is an oil. The white color of the texture results from the Gel Maker or Cream Maker dispersing the oil phase (PE-1 Aqua) into the water phase. When you use Pro Polymer Silk, which is a Gel Maker capable of dispersing oil, a formula containing PE-1 Aqua will become white. Adding Powder Cream might help increase opacity, but the dispersion of oil by the Gel Maker/Cream Maker is the primary factor making the texture white. If the formula contains no oil (e.g., if you remove PE-1 Aqua) and uses a Gel Maker that cannot disperse oil, the texture will not be white. Adding powders like Powder Cream to a purely liquid water-based formula might also cause the powder to settle.

Hope this information is helpful.
Thank you.
MySkinRecipes Team