Formulation Feedback and Recommendations

Your proposed formula contains a mix of water-soluble and oil/silicone-soluble ingredients without a water phase to dissolve the water-soluble components. This means the formula as written will not work, and the water-soluble ingredients (Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, Vitamin C, Alpha Arbutin, Aloe Vera Extract) will not dissolve properly, resulting in a poor texture and ineffective product.

To create a functional serum or gel with these ingredients, you must include a significant water phase.

Why the Original Formula Won't Work

Ingredients like Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Alpha Arbutin, and Aloe Vera Extract are hydrophilic (water-loving) and require water to dissolve. Your formula primarily consists of lipophilic (oil-loving) ingredients like Cyclopentasiloxane and Silicone Gel. Propylene Glycol can help with some solubility but cannot replace the need for water for these actives.

Texture and Formulation Considerations

A formula with high amounts of Cyclopentasiloxane and Silicone Gel would typically feel very smooth and silky. To incorporate your water-soluble actives and achieve a stable texture like a serum or gel, you need to create an emulsion or dispersion by adding a water phase and using a suitable emulsifier or thickener.

Ingredients like Sepimax Zen or Sepinov EMT10 are examples of thickeners/emulsifiers that can help stabilize formulations containing both water and silicones/oils, allowing you to create a gel or serum texture where all ingredients are properly dispersed or dissolved.

Vitamin C Stability

L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is potent but unstable, especially in water. Its stability is highly dependent on pH (optimal between 2.0-4.0, though cosmetic products usually aim for pH 3.5 or higher). Exposure to light, air, heat, and metal ions also causes degradation. Adding oil will not stabilize the Vitamin C in the water phase. To improve stability, consider:

• Using distilled or deionized water.
• Adjusting the final pH to the 3.5-4.0 range.
• Adding antioxidants (like Ferulic Acid or Vitamin E) and a chelating agent (like Disodium EDTA).
• Storing the product in opaque packaging in a cool, dark place, such as a refrigerator.

Mixing Vitamin C last, after the base is formed and pH is adjusted, can help minimize its exposure to conditions that might cause early degradation.

Preservation

Any cosmetic product containing water is prone to microbial contamination (bacteria, mold, yeast), which can lead to spoilage and potential skin infections. Even for a product intended for short-term use (like one month) and stored in a refrigerator, contamination can occur during preparation or use. It is strongly recommended to include a broad-spectrum preservative system in your formula to ensure its safety and stability throughout its usage period.

Recommended Formula Adjustments (Example)

To make your formula viable, you could consider a structure like this:

• Water Phase: Deionized Water (adjust percentage to reach 100% total, likely 40-50% or more)
• Water-Soluble Actives:
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 5%
  • Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): 15%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
• Oil/Silicone Phase:
  • Cyclopentasiloxane: 40% (Adjust based on desired feel)
  • Silicone Gel: 20% (Adjust based on desired feel)
  • Propylene Glycol: 10%
• Emulsifier/Thickener: Add a suitable ingredient like Sepimax Zen (0.5-2%) or Sepinov EMT10 (check usage rate).
• pH Adjuster: Lactic Acid or Sodium Hydroxide (as needed to reach pH 3.5-4.0).
• Preservative: Add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative system.
• Antioxidants/Chelating Agent (Optional): Add ingredients like Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E, or Disodium EDTA.

This type of formulation would require careful mixing to properly disperse the silicone phase within the thickened water phase and ensure stability.

In conclusion, your original formula needs significant modification to include a water phase and appropriate emulsification/thickening to dissolve the water-soluble actives and create a stable product. Proper pH adjustment and the inclusion of a preservative are also essential for efficacy and safety.