Formulating Serum with Insoluble Ingredients: Switching to Emulsion

Asked by: kreevorrachat On: December 16, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formula for a serum containing Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract, Activated Resorcinol, Alpha Arbutin, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Moist 72, Water Lock, Water Film, and Hydro Gel.

I encountered issues because Activated Resorcinol and Reservoir-Tech do not dissolve in water, and I was confused about Reservoir-Tech being described as dispersible but not soluble in water or oil.

If I add oil and an emulsifier like Cream Maker to the formula to create an emulsion (lotion/cream), can I effectively incorporate these ingredients?

Also, should Reservoir-Tech be added as the final step after all other ingredients are mixed?

Answer

Subject: Review of RosaHybridcell Serum Formula

Thank you for submitting your RosaHybridcell Serum formula for review.

Based on the ingredients and percentages provided, along with the feedback from our staff, there are a few key points to consider:

  1. Solubility Issues: As the staff pointed out, Activated Resorcinol and Reservoir-Tech are not soluble in water. Your original formula is primarily water-based, which means these ingredients would not properly dissolve or disperse, affecting the stability and efficacy of the serum.
  2. Formula Type: To incorporate Activated Resorcinol and Reservoir-Tech effectively, you would need to create an emulsion (like a lotion or cream) by adding an oil phase and an emulsifier, such as Cream Maker, as discussed in the follow-up. This would change the nature of the product from a water-based serum.
  3. Water Film: The staff recommended starting with a lower percentage (2-3%) for Water Film to avoid potential pilling issues, especially if not mixed thoroughly.
  4. Mixing Procedure: Your proposed mixing procedure is designed for a water-based system. If you switch to an emulsion, the mixing procedure will need to be significantly revised to properly combine the water and oil phases with the emulsifier.
  5. Desired Texture: Achieving a texture that is "not too liquid and not too thick" in an emulsion will depend on the percentages of the oil phase, emulsifier, and water phase, as well as any thickeners used. A serum texture is typically water-like or slightly viscous, which is difficult to achieve with ingredients requiring emulsification.
  6. Desired Benefits: The ingredients you've chosen (Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract, Activated Resorcinol, Alpha Arbutin, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Moist 72, Water Lock, Water Film, Hydro Gel) are relevant for moisturizing, whitening, and anti-aging benefits. However, their effectiveness relies on proper formulation and solubility.

Conclusion:

Your original formula as a water-based serum is not viable due to the solubility limitations of Activated Resorcinol and Reservoir-Tech. To use these ingredients, you must reformulate it as an emulsion by adding an oil phase and an emulsifier. This will change the texture and mixing process. You should also consider the staff's advice regarding the percentage of Water Film.

We recommend reviewing the properties of each ingredient and considering a revised formula structure (e.g., O/W emulsion) that can accommodate all desired components.