Formulating Serum with Phenylethyl Resorcinol: Solubility and Emulsifier
Question
I want to use [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/898-sym-white-phenylethyl-resorcinol.html:17vsrzjm]Phenylethyl Resorcinol[/url:17vsrzjm] (eq. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/898-sym-white-phenylethyl-resorcinol.html:17vsrzjm]Sym-White™[/url:17vsrzjm]) to formulate a serum, but [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/898-sym-white-phenylethyl-resorcinol.html:17vsrzjm]Sym-White[/url:17vsrzjm] needs to be dissolved in oil. Can I use [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/737-shea-butter-water-soluble.html:17vsrzjm]shea butter water[/url:17vsrzjm] at 5% as a solvent? And which [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/36-emulsifier:17vsrzjm]Emulsifier[/url:17vsrzjm] should I use to achieve a serum texture? Please advise.
Answer
Serum Formulation with Phenylethyl Resorcinol
You're looking to create a serum with Phenylethyl Resorcinol (Sym-White™) and need guidance on dissolving it and choosing an emulsifier.
Dissolving Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Phenylethyl Resorcinol is oil-soluble and needs to be dissolved in an oil phase. While Shea Butter Water is a water-soluble form of Shea Butter oil and can be incorporated into your formula, it is not the ideal primary solvent for Phenylethyl Resorcinol itself, especially at a low concentration like 5%.
It is recommended to first dissolve the Phenylethyl Resorcinol in a suitable cosmetic oil (like a light mineral oil or other ester oils) before incorporating it into your overall serum formulation. The oil phase helps ensure the Phenylethyl Resorcinol is properly dissolved and stable.
Choosing an Emulsifier for a Serum Texture
For a serum texture, which is typically light and non-greasy, you need an emulsifier that can create a stable, low-viscosity emulsion or a gel-serum. Based on the available options:
- CreamMaker EG™: This is a good option for creating a serum, particularly a gel-serum texture. It functions as both a thickener and stabilizer, is suitable for cold process, and can be dispersed in either the water or oil phase. It helps create a supple gel consistency.
- Sucrose Cream Maker™: This is another suitable nonionic O/W emulsifier that helps create a lightweight, non-oily, and silky skinfeel, which is desirable for a serum. It requires heat to dissolve in the oil phase.
Other emulsifiers like LeciCream™ are more suited for heavier creams and would not be ideal for a light serum texture.
Consider using either CreamMaker EG™ or Sucrose Cream Maker™ depending on whether you prefer a gel-serum or a light emulsion serum.
Important Considerations
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol is typically used at 0.1-1.0%, with 0.5% being a common recommended rate for leave-on products.
- Ensure the final serum pH is in the range of 4-5 for optimal stability of Phenylethyl Resorcinol.
- Avoid ingredients like Carbomer, Carbopol, PEG-400, Amino Acids, Urea, or proteins, as they can cause stability issues with Phenylethyl Resorcinol.
Related Products Mentioned
Shea Butter Water
