Formulating Serums for Hydration, Melasma, and Anti-Aging

Asked by: doremon47 On: February 18, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

Based on previous advice for my skin concerns (dehydrated, dry/oily combo, acne-prone, sensitive, significant melasma/freckles, wrinkles, dark circles/puffiness) and sensitivities (yeast, avocado, shellfish), I would like to formulate three separate serums:

  1. Serum 1: Hydration and Skin Barrier Strengthening (to address dehydration, sensitivity, oil/dry imbalance, clogged pores):

    • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5-10%
    • Ectoine: 2%
    • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 5%
    • Ceramide Complex: 1-3% (originally considered 10%)
    • Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
    • Calendula Extract: 5%
    • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5%
    • GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
    • Sodium Lactate: 3%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)

  2. Serum 2: Melasma Treatment and Skin Nourishment (to target melasma/freckles):

    • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
    • Licorice Extract: 1-2% (originally considered 5%)
    • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): 3%
    • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 3-5%
    • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)

  3. Serum 3: Wrinkle Treatment and Lifting (to address wrinkles, lifting, dark circles/puffiness):

    • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): 3%
    • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): 5%
    • Matrixyl 3000: 5%
    • Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8): 8%
    • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 3-4% (originally considered higher, but 3% is recommended)
    • Pep®-Eye (Haloxyl): 3%
    • Pep®-PP4 (Tego Pep 4-17): 5%
    • Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble): 0.1-1% (originally considered 3%)
    • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)

Could you confirm if these formulations are appropriate for my concerns and provide guidance on making them? Also, how can I determine the total cost for these ingredients?

Answer

Serum 1: Hydration and Skin Barrier Strengthening

This serum focuses on replenishing moisture, strengthening the skin's natural barrier, and soothing sensitivity, which can also help with the dry/oily imbalance and reduce clogged pores.

  • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5-10% (for deep and surface hydration)
  • Ectoine: 2% (protects cells, strengthens barrier, anti-irritation)
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 5% (moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, wound healing)
  • Ceramide Complex: 1-3% (restores skin barrier, reduces moisture loss, ideal for dry and sensitive skin - Note: User listed 10%, but 1-3% is typically recommended for efficacy and ease of formulation)
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 3% (soothing, reduces irritation, moisturizing)
  • Calendula Extract: 5% (anti-inflammatory, reduces redness, strengthens skin)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5% (improves barrier function, reduces oiliness, anti-inflammatory, mild brightening)
  • GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4% (hydration, works synergistically with Niacinamide for mild brightening and improving skin texture)
  • Sodium Lactate: 3% (part of Natural Moisturizing Factor, helps retain moisture)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

Serum 2: Melasma Treatment and Skin Nourishment

This serum targets hyperpigmentation and provides overall skin nourishment and antioxidant protection.

  • Alpha Arbutin: 2% (inhibits melanin production to reduce dark spots and melasma)
  • Licorice Extract: 1-2% (contains Glabridin, which helps with whitening and has anti-inflammatory effects - Note: User listed 5%, but 1-2% is the recommended usage rate for this extract)
  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): 3% (stable Vitamin C derivative for brightening and antioxidant benefits)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 3-5% (helps with overall skin tone, barrier, and complements brightening agents)
  • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1% (antioxidant, helps protect the formula and skin)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

Serum 3: Wrinkle Treatment and Lifting

This serum focuses on reducing the appearance of wrinkles and improving skin firmness.

  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): 3% (stimulates collagen synthesis)
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): 5% (helps reduce muscle contractions that cause expression lines)
  • Matrixyl 3000: 5% (peptide blend to stimulate collagen and repair skin)
  • Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8): 8% (similar to Argireline, helps reduce expression lines)
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 3-4% (helps increase skin firmness and elasticity - Note: Recommended usage is typically around 3%, higher concentrations can cause irritation)
  • Pep®-Eye (Haloxyl): 3% (specifically targets dark circles and puffiness around the eyes, which you mentioned treating)
  • Pep®-PP4 (Tego Pep 4-17): 5% (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, helps reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture and elasticity)
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble): 0.1-1% (antioxidant, helps repair photo-aging damage - Note: User listed 3%, but 0.1-1% is the recommended usage rate for this form)
  • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1% (antioxidant)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

I could not find specific information regarding "Sesaflash" in the available product data that matches its common description as a lifting ingredient.

To make these formulations, you would need to purchase the individual ingredients and a suitable base, then follow the mixing instructions for each ingredient (usually adding to the water phase, avoiding high heat unless specified).

Regarding the total cost, I am unable to provide pricing information for the ingredients or the complete formulations. You would need to check the prices of the individual components on the website.

Tags

Hydration Melasma Treatment Serum Skin Barrier Repair Wrinkle Reduction