Formulating Serums for Hydration, Melasma, and Anti-Aging

Asked by: doremon47 On: February 18, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on previous advice for my skin concerns (dehydrated, dry/oily combo, acne-prone, sensitive, significant melasma/freckles, wrinkles, dark circles/puffiness) and sensitivities (yeast, avocado, shellfish), I would like to formulate three separate serums:

  1. Serum 1: Hydration and Skin Barrier Strengthening (to address dehydration, sensitivity, oil/dry imbalance, clogged pores):

    • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5-10%
    • Ectoine: 2%
    • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 5%
    • Ceramide Complex: 1-3% (originally considered 10%)
    • Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
    • Calendula Extract: 5%
    • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5%
    • GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
    • Sodium Lactate: 3%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)
  2. Serum 2: Melasma Treatment and Skin Nourishment (to target melasma/freckles):

    • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
    • Licorice Extract: 1-2% (originally considered 5%)
    • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): 3%
    • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 3-5%
    • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)
  3. Serum 3: Wrinkle Treatment and Lifting (to address wrinkles, lifting, dark circles/puffiness):

    • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): 3%
    • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): 5%
    • Matrixyl 3000: 5%
    • Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8): 8%
    • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 3-4% (originally considered higher, but 3% is recommended)
    • Pep®-Eye (Haloxyl): 3%
    • Pep®-PP4 (Tego Pep 4-17): 5%
    • Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble): 0.1-1% (originally considered 3%)
    • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1%
    • Suitable serum base (e.g., distilled water, with thickener if needed)

Could you confirm if these formulations are appropriate for my concerns and provide guidance on making them? Also, how can I determine the total cost for these ingredients?

Answer

Serum 1: Hydration and Skin Barrier Strengthening

This serum focuses on replenishing moisture, strengthening the skin's natural barrier, and soothing sensitivity, which can also help with the dry/oily imbalance and reduce clogged pores.

  • Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5-10% (for deep and surface hydration)
  • Ectoine: 2% (protects cells, strengthens barrier, anti-irritation)
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 5% (moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, wound healing)
  • Ceramide Complex: 1-3% (restores skin barrier, reduces moisture loss, ideal for dry and sensitive skin - Note: User listed 10%, but 1-3% is typically recommended for efficacy and ease of formulation)
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 3% (soothing, reduces irritation, moisturizing)
  • Calendula Extract: 5% (anti-inflammatory, reduces redness, strengthens skin)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5% (improves barrier function, reduces oiliness, anti-inflammatory, mild brightening)
  • GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4% (hydration, works synergistically with Niacinamide for mild brightening and improving skin texture)
  • Sodium Lactate: 3% (part of Natural Moisturizing Factor, helps retain moisture)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

Serum 2: Melasma Treatment and Skin Nourishment

This serum targets hyperpigmentation and provides overall skin nourishment and antioxidant protection.

  • Alpha Arbutin: 2% (inhibits melanin production to reduce dark spots and melasma)
  • Licorice Extract: 1-2% (contains Glabridin, which helps with whitening and has anti-inflammatory effects - Note: User listed 5%, but 1-2% is the recommended usage rate for this extract)
  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): 3% (stable Vitamin C derivative for brightening and antioxidant benefits)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 3-5% (helps with overall skin tone, barrier, and complements brightening agents)
  • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1% (antioxidant, helps protect the formula and skin)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

Serum 3: Wrinkle Treatment and Lifting

This serum focuses on reducing the appearance of wrinkles and improving skin firmness.

  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): 3% (stimulates collagen synthesis)
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): 5% (helps reduce muscle contractions that cause expression lines)
  • Matrixyl 3000: 5% (peptide blend to stimulate collagen and repair skin)
  • Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8): 8% (similar to Argireline, helps reduce expression lines)
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 3-4% (helps increase skin firmness and elasticity - Note: Recommended usage is typically around 3%, higher concentrations can cause irritation)
  • Pep®-Eye (Haloxyl): 3% (specifically targets dark circles and puffiness around the eyes, which you mentioned treating)
  • Pep®-PP4 (Tego Pep 4-17): 5% (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, helps reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture and elasticity)
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble): 0.1-1% (antioxidant, helps repair photo-aging damage - Note: User listed 3%, but 0.1-1% is the recommended usage rate for this form)
  • Vitamin E (Water-Soluble): 1% (antioxidant)
  • Suitable serum base: (e.g., distilled water, with a thickener if needed)

I could not find specific information regarding "Sesaflash" in the available product data that matches its common description as a lifting ingredient.

To make these formulations, you would need to purchase the individual ingredients and a suitable base, then follow the mixing instructions for each ingredient (usually adding to the water phase, avoiding high heat unless specified).

Regarding the total cost, I am unable to provide pricing information for the ingredients or the complete formulations. You would need to check the prices of the individual components on the website.