Formulating Shower Oil with Scrub: Incorporating Water-Soluble Actives and Preventing Rancidity

Guidance on Oil Soap, Shower Oil, and Scrub Formulations

Based on the previous discussions, here is a summary and guidance for formulating oil-based cleansing products:

1. Alternative Surfactants for Milky Effect: The staff confirmed that there are no direct alternatives to MIPA-Laureth Sulfate (sold as "Oil Soap" on the website) that provide the same specific milky transformation effect when the oil-based product comes into contact with water. Surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lauryl Glucoside, or Coco Glucoside function differently and would not typically create this effect in a predominantly oil-based formula without significant formulation changes.

2. Formulating a Shower Oil with Scrub:

   • Thickener for Scrub: A thickener like Oil Thick Clear (Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer) is indeed necessary to help suspend scrub particles and prevent settling. The optimal concentration needs testing, as 10% might be higher than required.
   • Oil Rancidity: Natural oils, such as cold-pressed sesame oil, are susceptible to oxidation. Adding an antioxidant like Protect OX (Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate) is highly recommended to improve stability and prevent rancidity.
   • Formula Structure: The proposed structure using Oil Soap, various oils, Oil Blender, Oil Thick Clear, and scrub is a sound approach for a shower oil that emulsifies and contains exfoliating particles.

3. Incorporating Water-Soluble Ingredients:

   • Water-soluble ingredients (like Panthenol) can be included in oil-based formulas. This is typically achieved by dissolving them in a small amount of water combined with a co-solvent (such as Propylene Glycol).
   • This small water/co-solvent phase is then emulsified into the main oil phase using the primary emulsifier system (like Oil Soap). The key is to keep the water phase minimal so it can be effectively emulsified without causing the product to become cloudy or unstable.

4. General Formulation Approach & Mixing Steps:
   To create a shower oil with scrub that can incorporate water-soluble actives using ingredients available on the website:

   • Use Oil Soap as the primary emulsifier to achieve the milky effect upon contact with water.
   • Select your desired carrier oils.
   • Consider adding Oil Blender for enhanced emulsification or texture.
   • Include Oil Thick Clear at a tested concentration sufficient to suspend the scrub particles (e.g., Apricot scrub).
   • If adding water-soluble actives (like Panthenol), dissolve them in a small amount of water combined with a co-solvent like Propylene Glycol.
   • Add an antioxidant (like Protect OX) if using natural oils prone to rancidity.
   • Optionally add fragrance and color.

   Mixing Steps:

   1. Combine all oil-soluble ingredients (oils, Oil Soap, Oil Blender, Oil Thick Clear, antioxidant) and mix thoroughly until uniform.
   2. In a separate container, dissolve the water-soluble ingredients in the water/co-solvent mixture.
   3. Slowly add the water/co-solvent phase to the oil phase while continuously mixing. Ensure the mixture remains clear or only slightly hazy.
   4. Once the liquid is homogenous, add the scrub particles and mix gently to suspend them evenly.
   5. Finally, add fragrance (if used) and mix.

For specific example formulas and detailed mixing instructions for Oil Soap based products, please refer to the information provided on the Oil Soap product page on the website.