Formulating Silicone-Free, SLS/SLES-Free Shampoo and Conditioner/Hair Mask

ถามโดย: rhythmngirl เมื่อ: September 13, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Could you provide formula suggestions for shampoo and conditioner/hair mask that are free from SLS, SLES, and silicones? Specifically, how can I formulate these products to address hair tangling issues that might arise from removing silicones, and what alternative conditioning agents or other beneficial ingredients (like keratin, ceramides, prebiotics, amino acids) can be included? I am considering using surfactants like Lauryl Glucoside 10% and Coco Betaine 10% for shampoo, and need advice on replacements for silicone such as Guar Cationic or Cetrimonium Chloride for slip, and potentially SugarThick 3-5% for thickening.

คำตอบ

Non-SLS, Non-SLES, Non-Silicone Shampoo

This formulation uses gentle surfactants and includes ingredients to nourish the scalp and hair without silicones.

  • Cleansing Agents (Surfactants):
    • Lauryl Glucoside: A gentle, non-ionic surfactant derived from natural sources. Use at 10-20%.
    • Coco-Betaine: A mild, natural zwitterionic surfactant that boosts foam and is gentle on skin and hair. Use at 5-15%.
  • Conditioning & Anti-Static (Non-Silicone):
    • GuarCat™ Clear: A cationic guar gum that provides conditioning, reduces tangling, and helps thicken the formula while maintaining clarity. Use at 0.15-1.0%.
    • Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): A cationic conditioning agent that reduces static and improves wet and dry combability. Use at 0.5-2.0% (as 30% active solution). You can choose either GuarCat™ Clear or Cetrimonium Chloride, or a combination, depending on the desired feel and clarity.
  • Thickener:
    • SugarThick™: A plant-derived thickener suitable for surfactant systems, helps increase viscosity and can reduce irritation from other surfactants. Use at 1-5%.
  • Scalp Nourishment & Hair Repair:
    • Allantoin: Known for reducing irritation and supporting scalp repair. Use at 0.1-0.5%.
    • Hair-Prebiotic™: Nourishes the scalp and helps soften hair. Use at 1-5%.
    • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: Mimics the skin's natural moisturizing factors, beneficial for scalp hydration. Use at 0.5-1.0%.
    • KeraQuat™: Cationized keratin for better deposition on hair in rinse-off products, helps repair damaged hair. Use at 1-3%.
    • Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized): Another form of hydrolyzed keratin for hair repair and strengthening. Use at 0.1-5.0%. You can use one or both types of keratin.
    • Cera-Flux VX: A water-dispersible complex containing 5 types of ceramides, phytosphingosine, and cholesterol to help restore the hair and scalp barrier. Use at 1-15% (recommended 5%).
  • Water: Balance to 100%.
  • Other essential components: Preservative, fragrance, pH adjuster (Citric Acid or Lactic Acid to adjust pH to 5.0-6.5).

Basic Shampoo Formula Framework:

  • Water: ~60-70%
  • Lauryl Glucoside: 10-20%
  • Coco-Betaine: 5-15%
  • GuarCat™ Clear or Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): 0.15-2.0%
  • SugarThick™: 1-5%
  • Allantoin: 0.1-0.5%
  • Hair-Prebiotic™: 1-5%
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: 0.5-1.0%
  • KeraQuat™ and/or Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized): 1-5% total
  • Cera-Flux VX: 1-15%
  • Preservative, Fragrance, pH adjuster: q.s.

Non-Silicone Conditioner / Hair Mask

This formulation focuses on conditioning, repair, and nourishment without using silicones.

  • Conditioning & Detangling (Non-Silicone):
    • Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): A primary cationic conditioning agent for detangling and smoothing hair. Use at 1.0-2.0% for rinse-off conditioner/mask.
    • GuarCat™ Clear: Provides additional conditioning and can help thicken the mask texture. Use at 0.1-1.0%.
  • Nourishment & Repair:
    • Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized): Helps repair damaged hair structure. Use at 2.0-4.0% for a mask. Pure Keratin™ or KeraQuat™ can also be used.
    • Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder): A versatile ceramide form that can be dispersed in the oil or water phase of the mask, helps restore hair and scalp barrier. Use at 0.1-3%.
    • Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP): An oil-soluble ceramide, suitable if your mask base includes an oil phase. Use at 0.01-0.2%.
    • Cera-Flux VX: Water-dispersible ceramide complex, suitable for water-based or emulsified masks. Use at 1-15%. Choose the ceramide type(s) based on your mask base formulation.
  • Scalp Nourishment:
    • Allantoin: Soothes the scalp and aids in repair. Use at 0.1-2.0%.
    • Hair-Prebiotic™: Softens hair and nourishes the scalp. Use at 1-5%.
    • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: Provides moisture to the scalp. Use at 0.5-5.0%.
  • Base: You will need a non-silicone emulsifier and thickening system to create the conditioner/mask texture.
    • SureCream™: A non-ionic cream maker that can be used to form the base emulsion.
    • Other common non-silicone options include fatty alcohols (like Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol) and cationic emulsifiers (like BTMS - Behentrimonium Methosulfate).
  • Water: Balance to 100%.
  • Other essential components: Emollients (non-silicone oils/esters), humectants (Glycerin), preservative, fragrance, pH adjuster.

Basic Conditioner/Hair Mask Formula Framework:

  • Water: ~60-80%
  • Non-silicone Emulsifier/Thickener System (e.g., SureCream™ + Fatty Alcohols): 5-15%
  • Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): 1.0-2.0%
  • GuarCat™ Clear: 0.1-1.0%
  • Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized) and/or other Keratin: 2.0-4.0%
  • Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder) and/or Ceramide 3 and/or Cera-Flux VX: 0.1-15% total depending on type
  • Allantoin: 0.1-2.0%
  • Hair-Prebiotic™: 1-5%
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: 0.5-5.0%
  • Emollients, Humectants: 1-10%
  • Preservative, Fragrance, pH adjuster: q.s.

Remember that these are starting points. Formulation requires testing and adjustments based on desired texture, performance, and stability. Ensure proper mixing methods and compatibility of ingredients, especially with pH requirements for ingredients like Allantoin and GuarCat™ Clear.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Allantoin
Allantoin
เครื่องสำอาง
Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)
Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)
เครื่องสำอาง
Lauryl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
เครื่องสำอาง
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
เครื่องสำอาง
SugarThick™ (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate)
SugarThick™ (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure Keratin™ (Natural, Australian Sheep Wool)
Pure Keratin™ (Natural, Australian Sheep Wool)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)
Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hair-Prebiotic™
Hair-Prebiotic™
เครื่องสำอาง
Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP, N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine)
Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP, N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized)
Hydrolyzed Keratin (Liquid, Deodorized)
เครื่องสำอาง
GuarCat™ Clear
GuarCat™ Clear
เครื่องสำอาง
SureCream™ (Non-Ionic Cream Maker)
SureCream™ (Non-Ionic Cream Maker)
เครื่องสำอาง
Cera-Flux VX (Water Dispersible Ceramide Complex, 5 Types)
Cera-Flux VX (Water Dispersible Ceramide Complex, 5 Types)
เครื่องสำอาง
Coco-Betaine (e.q. Dehyton AB30)
Coco-Betaine (e.q. Dehyton AB30)
เครื่องสำอาง