Skincare Formulation Advice for Acne-Prone Skin with Whitening and Scarring Concerns

Based on your detailed questions and the ingredients you currently have, here is some advice on formulating your own skincare products for both your face and body.

Face Care

You are currently managing acne with treatments like Clinda M, Benzac AC 5%, Differin, and BHA 2%. It's good that you have your acne under control. You have Alpha Arbutin 2%, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 5%, and Pure Aloe Vera Gel 88% and want to mix them for your face.

• Compatibility: Mixing Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Panthenol into a Pure Aloe Vera Gel base is generally compatible. All these ingredients are water-soluble and work well in a gel base.

• Benefits:

  • Alpha Arbutin: Helps with skin brightening and achieving an even skin tone by reducing melanin production.
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Offers multiple benefits including reducing redness and dark spots (hyperpigmentation), strengthening the skin barrier, reducing oiliness, and providing anti-inflammatory effects, which are excellent for acne-prone skin and reducing the appearance of post-acne marks. Using it at 5% is a good concentration.
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Known for its soothing, hydrating, and wound-healing properties. It helps reduce inflammation and redness, accelerates skin regeneration, and can help minimize scarring. Using it at 5% is effective, but as mentioned previously, monitor if it feels too heavy or makes your skin excessively oily.
  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel: Provides a light, non-greasy, and soothing base that is hydrating and helps reduce irritation, suitable for your combination to oily skin type.

• Adding Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): You asked about adding Ascorbic Acid. While L-Ascorbic Acid is a potent antioxidant and brightener, it is highly unstable, especially when mixed into water-based formulas with other actives and at certain pH levels. It requires a low pH (ideally 2.0-4.0) for optimal efficacy and stability, which might cause irritation, particularly when combined with other actives or on sensitive/acne-prone skin. Simply stirring it into the Aloe Vera Gel base might lead to rapid oxidation and reduced effectiveness. If you want to incorporate Vitamin C, consider using a more stable derivative like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or an oil-soluble form like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, which are easier to formulate with and more stable in various bases and pH ranges. Alternatively, use a separate, properly formulated L-Ascorbic Acid serum.

• Mixing Method: For the Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Panthenol powders, add them to the Pure Aloe Vera Gel base at room temperature. Stir for 3-5 minutes, let it sit for 15-30 minutes to allow the powders to fully hydrate and dissolve, then stir again until completely dissolved and homogeneous. For liquid ingredients, simply stir them in for 1-3 minutes until well combined.

Body Care

For your body, you want to reduce scarring and whiten the skin, aiming for a non-greasy feel, using Vitamin B3 5%, Vitamin B5 5%, Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) 15%, and Pure Aloe Vera Gel 75%.

• Compatibility and Benefits: Similar to the face, Niacinamide and Panthenol are beneficial for the body for skin tone, hydration, barrier support, and scar healing. Using Pure Aloe Vera Gel as a base will provide a light, non-greasy feel.
• Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) at 15%: A 15% concentration of L-Ascorbic Acid is high and can be very effective for brightening and antioxidant benefits. However, the same stability and pH challenges apply as for the face. Mixing 15% L-Ascorbic Acid into a simple Aloe Vera Gel base by just stirring is unlikely to yield a stable or optimally effective product and could cause significant irritation. For a body product, especially at this concentration, using a stable Vitamin C derivative or a properly formulated product would be more reliable.
• Mixing Method: Follow the same mixing method as for the face for the Niacinamide and Panthenol powders in the Aloe Vera Gel base. If you decide to attempt mixing L-Ascorbic Acid (with caution), ensure it is fully dissolved, but be aware of the stability issues.

Sunscreen

Sunscreen is essential for both face and body, especially when using ingredients that increase sun sensitivity (like BHA and retinoids) and for preventing further hyperpigmentation. Finding a suitable sunscreen is crucial.

• Characteristics: Look for sunscreens specifically formulated for the face and body that are labeled as non-comedogenic (won't clog pores), oil-free, and provide a matte or non-greasy finish. SPF 20-30 with PA+++ is a good daily protection level for limited sun exposure.
• Formulating Sunscreen: Formulating sunscreen is complex and requires specific UV filters and testing to ensure efficacy and stability. It is generally recommended to use commercially available sunscreens that have been properly formulated and tested.

Vitamin E

You asked about Vitamin E. Vitamin E is a valuable antioxidant and moisturizer that helps protect the skin from free radical damage and supports skin healing. It is often included in skincare formulations. While some forms are oil-soluble and might contribute to a heavier feel at higher concentrations, water-soluble forms are also available and can be incorporated into lighter bases. Its benefits make it a good addition for overall skin health and supporting scar reduction.

Anti-Aging at Age 22

It is not too early to start preventative anti-aging care at age 22. The most important step is consistent sun protection. Additionally, many of the ingredients you are using or considering, such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Niacinamide, Panthenol, and Retinoids (like the Differin you use), already provide significant anti-aging benefits by protecting against environmental damage, supporting collagen production, and improving skin texture.

In summary, you can proceed with mixing Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Panthenol into your Pure Aloe Vera Gel for the face and body (adjusting percentages for the body if needed, keeping Panthenol lower if stickiness is a concern). Be very cautious with adding L-Ascorbic Acid due to stability issues; consider stable derivatives or separate products for Vitamin C. Always perform patch tests when trying new formulations. Continue using effective sun protection daily.