Formulating Solid, Non-Greasy Lip Products
Question
How to formulate a solid lip product (like a lip balm or stick) that is hard enough but still applies smoothly (good pay-off) and is not greasy or shiny? I've tried using natural waxes, which make the product hard, but it doesn't adhere well to the skin. I'm looking for ways to achieve a solid yet smooth, non-greasy texture.
Answer
Solid, Non-Greasy Lip Product Formulation
To achieve a solid lip product texture that is not overly greasy or shiny, the key is to carefully select and balance the waxes and oils in your formula.
Waxes for Hardness: Waxes are essential for providing the solid structure. Increasing the proportion of wax relative to oil will make the product harder.
Beeswax: Beeswax is a popular choice for adding hardness and also provides nourishing properties. However, natural Beeswax has a relatively low melting point and a softer texture compared to some other waxes. For very hard stick products like lipstick, it is often recommended to combine Beeswax with harder waxes to improve stability and prevent cracking.
Tribehenin: Tribehenin is a soft wax that can also contribute to hardness. It is known for providing a smooth feel and good adherence to the skin (pay-off). While it can add shine, its texture benefits might be desirable.
Balancing Waxes: To get the desired balance of hardness, feel, and reduced greasiness/shine, you might consider combining different waxes. For instance, using a harder wax like Carnauba Wax or Microcrystalline Wax alongside Beeswax or Tribehenin can help increase the melting point and overall hardness, while waxes like Microcrystalline Wax can also help absorb oil and reduce the greasy feel.
Reducing Oil Phase: As suggested, reducing the total amount of oil in the formula is crucial for minimizing greasiness and shine. The specific oils used also play a role; lighter, less emollient oils may result in a less greasy feel than heavier oils.
By adjusting the types and ratios of waxes and carefully controlling the oil phase, you can formulate a lip product with the desired solid, non-greasy texture.
Related Products Mentioned
Tribehenin (Soft Wax, USA)
Yellow Beeswax
Synthetic White Beeswax (Melting 62C)
Emulsifying Beeswax (Non-Ionic, Natural)
Synthetic White Beeswax (Melting 58C)
Synthetic White Beeswax (Melting 70C)