Cosmetic Formulation Advice for Whitening, Oil Control, and Pore Tightening

Based on your skin type (oily T-zone, yellowish/dull, some acne marks) and your goals of whitening, oil control, and pore tightening, here is a detailed response addressing your questions and the suggested formulations.

Regarding your questions about pH and preservatives:

• pH Compatibility and Measurement: It is crucial to consider the optimal pH range for each active ingredient in your formula to ensure its stability and effectiveness. When combining multiple active ingredients, the final pH of the mixture can be different from the individual ingredients. Therefore, it is highly recommended to measure the pH of your finished product and adjust it if necessary to be within the suitable range for all ingredients, as well as being appropriate for skin application (typically slightly acidic, around pH 4.5-6.0).
• Preservative: For any water-based cosmetic formulation, adding a preservative is essential to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast. Without a preservative, the product can become contaminated, leading to spoilage, reduced efficacy, and potential skin infections. Always include a suitable preservative system in your water-based formulas.

Let's look at the formulations discussed:

You initially proposed a gel formula focused on whitening. The staff has provided two suggested formulas tailored to your skin concerns: a toner for oil control and pore tightening, and a gel for brightening and oil/balance control.

Suggested Toner for Oil Control, Skin Balance, and Pore Tightening

This formula is designed to help manage oiliness, balance the skin, and tighten pores:

• Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin (92%): Helps to tighten pores and reduce irritation.
• Vitamin B6 (3%): Works to reduce oiliness and balance the skin.
• Zinc PCA (1%): Effective in reducing oil production and balancing the skin.
• Vitamin B3 (5%): Helps control oil, strengthens the skin barrier, and contributes to brightening.

This combination directly addresses your goal for an oil-control and pore-tightening product.

Suggested Gel for Whitening and Oil/Balance Control

This formula is aimed at brightening your skin, reducing yellowness, and managing oiliness:

• Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) (1.5%): Acts as the gel-forming agent.
• Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) (5%): A key whitening ingredient that also helps reduce oiliness and clogged pores. The concentration was adjusted to 5% as it is sufficient for brightening and less likely to cause irritation compared to 10%.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) (4%): Works with Vitamin B3 for whitening and helps strengthen the skin and provide light hydration.
• Tranexamic Acid (3%): Another effective ingredient for skin brightening and reducing dark spots.
• Vitamin B3 (5%): Included at a higher concentration (compared to your initial formula) to enhance whitening, strengthen the skin, and help balance oil production.
• Licorice Extract (1%): Helps reduce oiliness, balance the skin, and minimize potential irritation from other active ingredients like Azelaic Acid and Tranexamic Acid.
• PE-1 Aqua (3%): A penetration enhancer to help the active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
• Purified Water (rest): The base of the water-based gel.

This gel formula is already well-suited for your goal of whitening and improving your skin tone while also addressing oiliness. The combination of Azelaic Acid, GlucoBright, Tranexamic Acid, and Vitamin B3 provides a multi-targeted approach to brightening and reducing yellowness.

Other Ingredients You Considered

• Xanthan Gum: This is a common gel-forming agent. Pro Polymer was suggested in the staff's gel formula, which offers good electrolyte resistance, important when using ingredients like Zinc PCA or Azelaic Acid.
• Double Hyaluron Liquid: While great for hydration, the staff recommended removing it from the oil control formula as your skin is oily and doesn't require intense hydration, which could potentially increase oiliness in the T-zone. It is best suited for drier skin areas or types.
• Green Tea Extract: A good ingredient for antioxidant benefits, reducing oiliness, and reducing inflammation. It could potentially be added to either formula for these benefits, keeping in mind its pH requirements and stability considerations (avoiding Vitamin E, protecting from light, potentially using ActiveProtec™ OX).
• Disodium EDTA: This is a chelating agent that helps improve formula stability by binding to metal ions in water. It is a useful addition, especially if you are not using highly purified water.
• Light Cream Maker™: This is an emulsifier for creating cream textures. Since your skin is oily in the T-zone, a lighter gel or toner texture (as suggested by the staff) might be more suitable than a cream, which could feel too heavy or contribute to oiliness.

Finally, regarding the availability of GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), the staff mentioned it was expected to be back in stock around December 7, 2015.

Here are the suggested formulas again for clarity:

Toner for Oil Control & Pore Tightening:

• Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin: 92%
• Vitamin B6: 3%
• Zinc PCA: 1%
• Vitamin B3: 5%
• Add a suitable preservative according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Gel for Whitening & Oil/Balance Control:

• Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 1.5%
• Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 5%
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
• Tranexamic Acid: 3%
• Vitamin B3: 5%
• Licorice Extract: 1%
• PE-1 Aqua: 3%
• Purified Water: rest
• Add a suitable preservative according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Remember to measure and adjust the pH of your final products for optimal performance and stability.