Formulating a Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid Serum

Regarding your plan to create a serum similar to Skinceutical's Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid formula, your proposed ingredients are a good starting point. However, there are a few key considerations for successful formulation, particularly regarding the solubility of Ferulic Acid.

Viability of Your Proposed Formula

Your formula includes Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid Ultra-Fine), Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol), Pure-Ferulic Acid™, Purified Water, Glycerin, and Aloe Vera Extract. While these ingredients are beneficial, the standard Pure-Ferulic Acid™ is not soluble in water. Your proposed formula is primarily water-based (Purified Water, Glycerin, Aloe Vera Extract), which means the Pure-Ferulic Acid™ powder will not dissolve properly in this system.

Additionally, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) requires a low pH (ideally between 3.5 and 4.0) for stability and efficacy. You will need to adjust the pH of your final formula to be within this range. Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) is oil-soluble, so you will need to find a way to incorporate it into your water-based serum, possibly using a small amount of a suitable solvent or emulsifier.

Dissolving Ferulic Acid

You asked if Propylene Glycol can dissolve Pure-Ferulic Acid™. Based on the product information, Pure-Ferulic Acid™ is soluble in solvents like Ethoxydiglycol or ethanol, but not water. Propylene Glycol is a water-soluble solvent and humectant, but it is not listed as a solvent for Pure-Ferulic Acid™ powder.

For a water-based serum like the one you are planning, a much easier and more effective way to incorporate Ferulic Acid is to use Micromul™ Ferulic Acid. This is a microemulsion form of Ferulic Acid that is designed to be directly soluble in water, making the formulation process much simpler. The recommended usage rate for Micromul™ Ferulic Acid is typically 1-5%, with 2-3% being recommended for anti-aging and antioxidant benefits.

Recommendation

To make your serum viable and easier to formulate, consider replacing Pure-Ferulic Acid™ with Micromul™ Ferulic Acid. You will also need to carefully adjust the pH of your final serum to the optimal range for Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) (pH 3.5-4.0) and find a method to incorporate the oil-soluble Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) into your water base.

Your inclusion of Glycerin and Aloe Vera Extract is good for adding moisture and soothing properties to the serum.