Formulating Vitamin C Serum and Moisturizing Lotion with Specific Ingredients

Asked by: ni_nk On: August 21, 2012 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to formulate two products: a Vitamin C serum and a liquid moisturizing lotion, using the following ingredients. Could you please provide the method and proportions for each, and advise if any essential ingredients are missing?

Vitamin C Serum Ingredients:

  • Glycerin (Vegetable)
  • Sea Kelp Bioferment
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule)
  • Ferulic Acid
  • DMAE Bitartrate
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide, Niacin)
  • Vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol)
  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) Ultra-Fine

Liquid Moisturizing Lotion Ingredients:

  • Sea Kelp
  • HA
  • DMAE
  • V.B3
  • V.E
  • Note:* I understand from the expert's reply that adding some ingredients to the Vitamin C serum can be complex and requires expertise, and that for the lotion containing Vitamin E, an emulsifier and preservative are essential. I am still seeking guidance on the general approach and proportions for these specific ingredient lists.

Answer

Formulating Your Serums and Lotions

Thank you for your question regarding formulating your own Vitamin C serum and moisturizing lotion using the ingredients you have. Creating stable and effective cosmetic formulations can be complex, and providing exact step-by-step instructions and precise percentage ratios for custom recipes is challenging without detailed formulation expertise and testing.

Based on the ingredients you listed and the information available:

Vitamin C Serum (Glycerin, Ferulic acid, Vitamin C, Vitamin B3, Vitamin E, DMAE, Sea Kelp)

You have a good list of potent ingredients for a Vitamin C serum. You mentioned:

  • Glycerin (Vegetable): A humectant that helps attract and retain moisture.
  • Pure-Ferulic Acid™: A powerful antioxidant that works synergistically with Vitamins C and E to enhance stability and photoprotection.
  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine): A highly effective form of Vitamin C for brightening and anti-aging, but it is unstable in water and requires careful formulation, typically at a low pH (2.0-4.0, with FDA recommending at least 3.5 for skin application). It should be mixed in the final step at temperatures below 30°C.
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Beneficial for reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, oiliness, and strengthening the skin barrier. It is water-soluble and can be mixed in the water phase, stable across a pH of 3-8.
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): An antioxidant that protects against free radicals and helps slow aging. It is oil-soluble.
  • Sea Kelp Extract: A moisturizing and nourishing extract with antioxidant properties, soluble in water or emulsifiers, but sensitive to heat above 60°C.
  • DMAE Bitartrate: (Note: A specific product ID for DMAE Bitartrate was not found in the search results.)

The staff's reply correctly pointed out that adding ingredients like Sea Kelp Extract and DMAE to a standard Vitamin C E Ferulic formula can be difficult and is not recommended for non-experts due to potential stability issues, especially with the sensitive L-ascorbic acid.

Standard Vitamin C E Ferulic formulas typically involve dissolving L-ascorbic acid and Ferulic acid in a base, often using a solvent like Ethoxydiglycol for Ferulic acid, and then incorporating Vitamin E. Adding water-soluble ingredients like Sea Kelp Extract and Niacinamide, and potentially DMAE, while maintaining the low pH required for L-ascorbic acid stability and ensuring everything remains dissolved and stable, is a complex formulation challenge.

Moisturizing Lotion (Sea Kelp, HA, DMAE, V.B3, V.E)

For your moisturizing lotion, you listed:

  • Sea Kelp Extract: Provides moisture and nourishment.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons): A humectant that provides hydration to the outer layer of the skin. It is a powder that needs to be properly dissolved in water, which can take time.
  • DMAE Bitartrate: (Note: A specific product ID for DMAE Bitartrate was not found in the search results.)
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Water-soluble ingredient for various skin benefits.
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): Oil-soluble antioxidant.

The staff's reply correctly highlighted a crucial point for this formulation: since you are including Vitamin E (an oil-soluble ingredient) in what you described as a "liquid lotion" (presumably water-based), you will need an emulsifier to mix the oil and water phases together and create a stable lotion that doesn't separate. The staff mentioned Sepiplus 400 as an example emulsifier (Note: A specific product ID for Sepiplus 400 was not found in the search results). Without an emulsifier, the oil and water components will not stay mixed.

Essential ingredients missing from your list for a stable lotion containing oil-soluble ingredients would include:

  • An Emulsifier: To blend the oil and water phases.
  • A Preservative: Essential for any water-containing formulation to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety and shelf life. Hyaluronic Acid solutions, in particular, require preservatives.

Proportions and Method

Determining the exact proportions and mixing methods for these custom formulations is beyond the scope of general guidance and requires experimental formulation work. The optimal percentage for each ingredient depends on the desired efficacy, the compatibility of the ingredients, and the overall stability of the final product. Mixing methods vary significantly based on the ingredients and the type of product being made (serum, lotion, etc.).

In Summary

While you have selected beneficial ingredients, creating stable and effective custom formulations, especially a complex Vitamin C serum with additional actives or a lotion containing both oil and water components, requires careful formulation knowledge. For the lotion, an emulsifier and a preservative are essential additions. For precise methods and proportions, it is best to refer to tested standard formulations or consult with experienced formulators.