Formulating Water-Based Lotion with Herbal Water and Coconut Oil
Asked by: aoy.thanawadee
On: June 12, 2017
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I am formulating a water-based product using herbal water and want to incorporate oil (originally planned to use cold-pressed coconut oil). I need guidance on selecting the appropriate oil and emulsifier, the correct mixing procedure including temperatures, how to achieve a lotion-like texture (or thicker), and considerations for product stability, especially given the use of herbal water.
Specifically, I am looking for advice on:
- The difference between Fractionated Coconut Oil and Cold-Pressed Coconut Oil for this type of formulation.
- Recommendations for suitable ingredients, particularly an emulsifier (considering alternatives to Tween 20).
- Detailed mixing instructions, including the temperatures for the oil and water phases, the emulsification process, and when to add preservatives like Phenoxyethanol SA.
- How to achieve a desired texture (lotion-like or thicker) and potentially using thickeners like AnyGel.
- Important considerations for ensuring the stability and preservation of the final product when using herbal water, including recommended testing.
Answer
Here's a summary based on the information provided:
Difference between Fractionated Coconut Oil and Cold-Pressed Coconut Oil:
- Cold-Pressed Coconut Oil: Contains various fatty acids, including longer-chain ones, which cause it to be solid at room temperature (below ~24°C). It retains more of the natural coconut scent and beneficial compounds.
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: This oil has undergone a process (fractionation) to remove the longer-chain fatty acids, leaving primarily medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). This makes it liquid at room temperature, gives it a very light, non-greasy feel, and makes it more stable (less prone to oxidation).
- In your formula, which is water-based, Fractionated Coconut Oil is recommended because it is easier to emulsify and incorporate into the mixture compared to regular coconut oil, which is solid at cooler temperatures.
Recommended Ingredients for your formula:
- The staff recommended using Fractionated Coconut Oil instead of cold-pressed coconut oil for better emulsification.
- They also recommended using Butter Cream Maker instead of Tween 20 because Butter Cream Maker is more effective at emulsifying 5% oil in a water-based system, especially one containing herbal extracts which may affect stability.
Mixing Temperatures and Process for the Revised Formula:
- Phase 1 (Oil Phase): Mix Fractionated Coconut Oil (3%) and Butter Cream Maker (3%) together and heat to 70-75°C.
- Phase 2 (Water Phase): Heat the herbal water (93.5%) to a similar temperature, close to 70-75°C.
- Emulsification: Slowly add the heated herbal water (Phase 2) into the heated oil phase (Phase 1) while blending continuously. Continue blending until a cream forms.
- Cooling and Adding Preservative: Let the mixture cool down to below 50°C. Then add Phenoxyethanol SA (0.5%) and blend until fully incorporated.
- Note: Using a blender is recommended for proper emulsification; stirring by hand may be difficult.
Expected Consistency:
- The resulting texture of the revised formula (with 3% Fractionated Coconut Oil and 3% Butter Cream Maker) will be similar to a lotion.
- If you desire a thicker consistency, you can add a thickener like AnyGel (0.3-0.5%) to the water phase and blend before combining with the oil phase.
Stability Considerations:
- Since your herbal water is prone to spoilage (color/smell change, microbial growth) at room temperature without preservatives, it is crucial to use a preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA.
- It is highly recommended to perform small-scale tests of your final formula and store them under different conditions (room temperature, refrigeration) for 1-3 months to check for stability (separation, color change, smell change, microbial growth) before producing larger batches. The herbal extracts might affect the stability and consistency of the final product.
Related Products Mentioned
Fractionated Coconut Oil
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Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
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Butter Cream Maker™
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