Formulating Waterproof, Non-Clumping, Washable Eyebrow Mascara

Formulation Guide for a Black Eyebrow Mascara: Waterproof, Non-Clumping, Thin, and Partially Washable

To develop a black eyebrow product similar to mascara that is waterproof, non-clumping, thin, and partially washable, you need to carefully select key raw materials:

1. Film Former

This group of ingredients is crucial for building waterproof and long-lasting properties. Choosing the right film former(s) will help control both the level of waterproofing and the ease of washing off.

• Resist Film (Water Base): Provides a strong, highly waterproof film, suitable for formulas requiring high durability.
• Flex Film (Water Base) or Polyacrylate-21 (Water Base, Gloss & Flexible): Provides a flexible and moderately waterproof film. Using it in combination with Resist Film, or alone in appropriate amounts, will help the formula remain waterproof but not excessively difficult to wash off.
• Allianz OPT: A film former that enhances water and wear resistance without significantly increasing viscosity, making it suitable for thin, non-clumping formulas.

Combining different film formers in varying ratios allows you to adjust the level of waterproofing and film flexibility to your desired specifications.

2. Black Pigment

To achieve a clear and lasting black color:

• WaterMix™ Black (Iron Oxides Black): Iron Oxides Black pigment pre-dispersed in water, easy to use in water-based formulas like mascara and eyeliner.
• Iron Oxides Black (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated): Iron Oxides Black pigment with a surface coating that helps it disperse well in oils, silicones, and powders, improving skin adherence and waterproofing.

For a water-based formula, using WaterMix™ Black is generally easier to incorporate.

3. Rheology Modifier / Thickener / Wax

To control the texture of the product, keeping it thin, non-clumping, and ensuring good adherence to eyebrow hairs.

• Typically, mascaras use waxes like Candelilla Wax or Tribehenin (Soft Wax) to thicken the texture and help coat the lashes/brows.
• However, to achieve a thin, non-clumping texture suitable for eyebrows, the amount of wax should be reduced, or a wax that provides a softer, more flexible texture should be chosen. Alternatively, some film formers can contribute to viscosity without making the texture heavy, such as Allianz OPT.

Basic Formulation Approach

Start with a water-based formula (Water Base) containing water, film former(s) (may start by combining Resist Film with Flex Film or Polyacrylate-21), black pigment (like WaterMix™ Black), and a preservative. You may add small amounts of other rheology modifiers to achieve the desired texture.

Adjusting the ratio of film formers and texture modifiers is key to controlling the waterproofing, washability, thinness, and non-clumping properties. Experiment with small adjustments to find the right balance for your needs.