Formulating Watery Essence for Oily Skin with Wrinkles: Ingredients and Preservation

Question

I have very oily skin with wrinkles and would like to formulate a watery essence. I am considering using ingredients from the oil control and anti-aging categories. The staff recommended the following ingredients for oil control:

Zinc PCA 1%
Licorice Extract 1%
AcneBee Extra 2%
Safe-B3 5%
Vitamin B6 3%

And suggested selecting 1-2 ingredients from the anti-aging category, along with Reservoir-Tech 3% for penetration, Mild Preserved Eco 1% as a preservative, and AnyGel 1% for texture.

Can these ingredients generally be mixed together? I plan to store the product at room temperature. Also, the percentages listed for the oil control ingredients add up to 100%; how should the formulation percentages be handled, considering other ingredients and a base like distilled water?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding your proposed ingredients for a watery essence targeting oil control, pore tightening, and lifting:

The ingredients you listed are generally compatible and can be mixed together.

However, it is crucial to add a preservative to your formula, especially since you plan to store it at room temperature. Water-based products without a preservative are highly susceptible to microbial growth, which can make the product unsafe to use. The staff also recommended adding a preservative like Mild Preserved Eco (1%).

Also, please note that the percentages you listed add up to 100%. Cosmetic formulations typically include a base, such as distilled water, to make up the total weight of the formula. You will likely need to add distilled water to your mixture to reach 100% total weight, adjusting the percentages of your active ingredients accordingly based on the final volume/weight of your essence.

The staff provided several other helpful suggestions for optimizing your formula for oily, acne-prone, and aging skin, including adding a gelling agent (AnyGel) for texture and a penetration enhancer (Reservoir-Tech), as well as alternative/additional active ingredients. While these are beneficial enhancements, adding a preservative is the most critical step for ensuring the safety and stability of your product when stored at room temperature.