Formulating with Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 10%

Here is information regarding your questions about formulating with Perfect-C™ at a 10% concentration:

1. Using Ready-Made Bases

Adding 10% Perfect-C™ (an oil-soluble active) to ready-made emulsion bases like Cica Sleeping Mask Base, Water Sleeping Mask Base, or Absolue Soft Cream Base requires careful consideration and testing.

• Compatibility: These bases are designed to accept additional active ingredients. However, adding a high percentage (10%) of an oil-soluble ingredient like Perfect-C™ might affect the stability and texture of the emulsion, especially if the base already has a significant oil phase. The Cica Sleeping Mask Base, for instance, states it can accommodate a maximum of 10% additional oil or silicone, so adding 10% Perfect-C™ would be at this limit.
• pH: Perfect-C™ is most stable and effective at a pH between 5.0-5.5. The pH of the ready-made bases is not specified in their descriptions. You would need to check the pH of the final mixture after adding Perfect-C™ and adjust it if necessary to be within the optimal range for Perfect-C™.
• Recommendation: While it might be possible to add 10% Perfect-C™ to these bases, it is crucial to perform stability testing (checking for separation, changes in texture, color, or odor over time and under different temperature conditions) and confirm the final pH is suitable. For optimal results and stability, especially with a high concentration of an active ingredient, formulating from scratch or using a base specifically designed for high oil-soluble active loads might be preferable.

2. Adding Penetration Enhancers (Laurocapram and 1,2-Hexanediol)

Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C known for its good skin absorption. Adding penetration enhancers like Laurocapram (Oil Soluble) and 1,2-Hexanediol can potentially further improve delivery into the skin.

• Laurocapram (Oil Soluble): This is a penetration enhancer specifically for oil-soluble ingredients. It can be used at 1-3% (recommended 2%).
• 1,2-Hexanediol: This ingredient also acts as a penetration enhancer (at 2-4%) and offers additional benefits like moisture retention and preservative boosting. Note that both Cica Sleeping Mask Base and Water Sleeping Mask Base already contain 1,2-Hexanediol.
• Consideration: While these can enhance penetration, Perfect-C™ already absorbs well. Adding enhancers might increase the penetration of other ingredients in your formula as well. If you choose to add them to a ready-made base, ensure the total percentage of added ingredients (Perfect-C​​​​, Laurocapram, 1,2-Hexanediol) does not exceed the base's maximum load capacity and test for stability and skin feel.

3. Texture with Squalane and Isododecane

Mixing 10% Perfect-C™ with Squalane (Olive) and Isododecane (Germany) will result in an oil-based serum or mixture. The texture and level of stickiness will depend significantly on the ratio of Squalane to Isododecane.

• Squalane (Olive): This is a non-greasy emollient that absorbs relatively quickly and provides moisturization.
• Isododecane (Germany): This is a very lightweight, volatile emollient that evaporates quickly, leaving a dry, non-sticky feel. It is often used to reduce the heavy or greasy feel of oils.
• Texture Outcome: A mixture of 10% Perfect-C™ in Squalane alone would feel like a facial oil. By incorporating Isododecane, you can significantly reduce the oily and potentially sticky feel. Using a higher proportion of Isododecane relative to Squalane will result in a much lighter, faster-absorbing, and less sticky texture, which would be more suitable for oily/combination skin and for use in the morning under sunscreen.

In summary, while adding Perfect-C™ to ready bases is possible with testing, formulating an oil-based serum with Squalane and Isododecane allows more control over texture. Adjusting the ratio of Squalane and Isododecane is key to achieving a non-greasy feel suitable for your skin type and morning routine.