Formulating with Powdered Royal Jelly Extract: Solubility and Mixing Issues

Question

I have a question about formulating with Powdered Royal Jelly Extract (Acnebee - สารสกัดนมผึ้ง).

The Royal Jelly Extract I previously bought was liquid, but this one is a powder. I tried using it in a formula I made before, but it dissolves initially and then turns back into a powder when mixed.

Here is the formula I used:

Royal Jelly 0.5%
Preservative 1 %
Water
Vit B5 2%
B3 5%
Proprymer 0.7%
white oil 1.5%

When I dissolved the Royal Jelly in the white oil and then mixed it with all the ingredients in the water phase, it turned into small particles, like it didn't dissolve.

The old liquid version was easy, but I can't get this powdered one to work. Is there a suggested mixing method for this?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Solution for Powdered Royal Jelly Extract in Your Formula

It sounds like you're having trouble incorporating the powdered Royal Jelly Extract (10-hydroxydecanoic acid) into your formula, causing it to reappear as small particles. This is likely because the powdered form of this extract is oil-soluble, while many of your other ingredients are water-soluble, and you're using a water-based gel maker (Pro Polymer).

When you dissolve the Royal Jelly Extract in the oil phase (white oil) and then mix it with the water phase containing the gel, the oil phase may not be properly dispersed or emulsified into the water gel, causing the oil-soluble extract to separate out.

Here is a suggested mixing method to help incorporate the powdered Royal Jelly Extract into your formula. This method focuses on ensuring the extract is fully dissolved in the oil phase and then carefully dispersing that oil phase into the water gel. Please note that without a dedicated emulsifier, achieving perfect, long-term stability can be challenging.

Suggested Mixing Method

Prepare the Water Phase: In a clean container, combine your water, preservative (Mild Preserved™ COS), Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), and Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™). Stir gently until all the powders are completely dissolved.
Hydrate the Gel Maker: Slowly sprinkle the Pro Polymer™ powder onto the surface of the water mixture from Step 1 while stirring gently. Avoid stirring too vigorously at this stage to prevent incorporating excess air. Let the mixture sit for about 15-30 minutes to allow the Pro Polymer™ to hydrate and form a gel. Then, stir gently again until you have a smooth, uniform gel.
Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate container, combine the white oil (Mineral Oil) and the powdered Royal Jelly Extract (10-hydroxydecanoic acid). Heat this mixture gently, up to 70°C, while stirring continuously until the Royal Jelly Extract powder is completely dissolved and the oil mixture is clear. Once dissolved, remove from heat and let it cool slightly.
Combine the Phases: Slowly add the oil mixture from Step 3 drop by drop to the water gel from Step 2. While adding the oil, continuously stir the water gel. Use a stirring method that helps to disperse the oil droplets finely into the gel. Continue stirring until the oil phase is fully incorporated and the entire mixture appears uniform with no visible particles.
Final Check: Once fully mixed, check the pH of your final product. The Royal Jelly Extract (10-hydroxydecanoic acid) works best in a pH range of 4-5.5. Adjust the pH if necessary using a suitable pH adjuster.

This method should help you better incorporate the oil-soluble royal jelly extract. Remember to stir well during the combination phase to create as stable a dispersion as possible with the ingredients you have.