Formulating with Retinaldehyde: Solubility, Oil-Free Gel/Cream, and Ingredient Compatibility

Asked by: jn_andy On: November 15, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am planning to formulate a product with Retinaldehyde. I have several questions regarding the formulation process and ingredient compatibility:

  • For sensitive or dry skin, can I add anti-irritant ingredients like Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)?
  • Can I also add HA (Hyaluronic Acid) and Adenosine to the formula?
  • Is it safe to use Retinaldehyde at 0.05% continuously? What skin types or conditions should avoid it (e.g., sun exposure, pregnancy)?
  • Is it possible to create an oil-free gel formulation containing Retinaldehyde? How can Retinaldehyde be dissolved if not in oil?
  • What ratio of oil is suitable for dissolving Retinaldehyde, especially for acne-prone skin? Are FloraSolve and LipidSoft Dry suitable, and what percentage should be used? Is brief heating to 60°C necessary?
  • Can Luxury Cream Maker be used to create an oil-free cream with Retinaldehyde that is suitable for acne-prone skin?

Answer

Based on the information provided:

  • Adding anti-irritant ingredients for sensitive/dry skin: For sensitive or dry skin, it is recommended to add ingredients that help strengthen and moisturize the skin, such as Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide).
  • Adding HA and Adenosine: Yes, you can add HA (Hyaluronic Acid) and Adenosine to the formula.
  • Long-term use of Vitamin A and unsuitable skin types: Using Retinaldehyde at 0.05% is safe for continuous use. Avoid strong sun exposure (e.g., outdoor sports), but normal daily sun exposure is fine. Pregnant women should avoid using any type of Vitamin A.
  • Gel formulation without oil and dissolving Retinaldehyde without oil: Retinaldehyde must be dissolved in oil for it to be effective. It cannot be dissolved in other solvents. Therefore, an oil-free gel formulation containing Retinaldehyde is not possible.
  • Ratio of oil and suitable oil for acne-prone skin: The staff recommended using FloraSolve 5% and LipidSoft Dry 15% to dissolve Retinaldehyde, suggesting brief heating to 60°C can help. These are the recommended oils for dissolution.
  • Luxury Cream Maker for oil-free cream and acne-prone skin: Since Retinaldehyde requires oil dissolution, an oil-free cream containing Retinaldehyde is not feasible based on the provided information.