Formulation Adjustment for Oily Skin, Large Pores, and Brightening

Asked by: popowind On: December 19, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formulation with the following ingredients:

  • Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D) 4% (GlucoBright™)
  • Alpha-Arbutin 2% (Alpha Arbutin)
  • Bio-Yeast Essence 1% (MYFerment™ Balance)
  • Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A) 1.0% (Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract)
  • Zinc PCA 1%
  • Green Tea Extract EGCG 5% (Pure-EGCG™)
  • Vitamin B3 5% (Safe-B3™)

I don't need the skin nourishing benefits from Bio-Yeast Essence 1%. I want to remove Bio-Yeast Essence 1% and add MSM and L-Carnitine to help reduce oiliness. What are the implications of this change?

Answer

Formulation Analysis for Oily Skin, Large Pores, and Brightening

Your initial formulation includes several excellent ingredients targeting your skin concerns:

  • Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D) 4% (GlucoBright™): This ingredient works well with Vitamin B3 for brightening and reducing dark spots. It also helps the skin produce Hyaluronic Acid for moisture, can reduce wrinkles, and offers gentle exfoliation which may help reduce acne breakouts.
  • Alpha-Arbutin 2% (Alpha Arbutin): A well-known ingredient for skin brightening and achieving a more even skin tone by reducing melanin production. The recommended usage rate for brightening is up to 2%.
  • Bio-Yeast Essence 1% (MYFerment™ Balance): This fermented ingredient contains beneficial metabolites like peptides, amino acids, vitamins, and beta-glucans. It can help support the skin barrier, provide hydration, and has soothing and antioxidant properties. Some research suggests it can improve skin clarity and luminosity and potentially support a balanced skin microbiome.
  • Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A) 1.0% (Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract): Known for its ability to reduce skin inflammation, redness, and irritation, which is beneficial for acne-prone oily skin. It can also help control skin oiliness. Note that Licochalcone A itself is primarily for anti-inflammatory and oil control benefits, not skin whitening according to the product description.
  • Zinc PCA 1%: Highly effective for reducing skin oiliness by controlling sebum production. It also helps accelerate wound healing (like acne scars), stimulates collagen production, and has anti-bacterial properties, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.
  • Green Tea Extract EGCG 5% (Pure-EGCG™): A potent antioxidant that can help reduce skin oiliness and has anti-inflammatory properties. Research suggests it can be effective in reducing oiliness within days of application.
  • Vitamin B3 5% (Safe-B3™): An incredibly versatile ingredient (Niacinamide). At 5%, it's effective for reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation (dark spots), improving skin moisture by boosting ceramides and collagen, strengthening the skin barrier, and significantly reducing facial oiliness and improving acne. It works synergistically with Acetyl Glucosamine for brightening.

Considering the Feedback

The feedback suggested removing Bio-Yeast Essence and adding MSM and L-Carnitine for oil control.

  • Removing Bio-Yeast Essence: As mentioned above, Bio-Yeast Essence (MYFerment™ Balance) offers hydration, barrier support, and soothing benefits. While not a primary oil control ingredient, it contributes to overall skin health. Removing it would simplify the formula and focus it more narrowly on brightening and oil control actives, but keeping it could provide complementary benefits.
  • Adding MSM (Pure MSM™): MSM is noted for oil control by reducing sebaceous gland activity. It can also provide exfoliation at higher concentrations (above 3%) and supports collagen synthesis. The product description warns against using it with Vitamin C in the same formula as it may accelerate Vitamin C oxidation.
  • Adding L-Carnitine (L-Carnitine): L-Carnitine can help balance moisture, gently accelerate skin cell turnover, and is effective in reducing facial oiliness by controlling pore oil production. It is considered gentler than some AHA/BHA acids for exfoliation. It is also noted for helping heal scars and having potential anti-cellulite and firming claims recognized by the Thai FDA.

Synthesis and Recommendation

Your original formulation is already very strong for addressing oily skin, large pores, and uneven tone due to the inclusion of Niacinamide, Alpha-Arbutin, Zinc PCA, Green Tea Extract, and Acetyl Glucosamine.

  • The combination of Niacinamide and Zinc PCA at the concentrations you listed is particularly effective for oil control and improving pore appearance.
  • Alpha-Arbutin and the synergy between Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine are excellent for brightening and tackling uneven tone.
  • Licorice Root Extract and Green Tea Extract provide valuable anti-inflammatory and antioxidant support, which is crucial for managing oily and potentially acne-prone skin.

The suggestion to remove Bio-Yeast Essence is reasonable if you want a highly targeted formula, but its inclusion offers hydration and barrier support benefits that can be valuable even for oily skin.

Adding MSM and L-Carnitine could potentially enhance the oil control aspect further and provide additional benefits like gentle exfoliation (L-Carnitine, MSM at higher %s) and scar healing support (L-Carnitine). However, your current active ingredients already provide significant oil control. If you choose to add MSM, be mindful of potential interactions if you plan to include Vitamin C in other products you use.

Ultimately, your initial formulation is well-designed for your stated goals. Whether to remove Bio-Yeast Essence or add MSM and L-Carnitine depends on your desired formula complexity and whether you want to maximize specific benefits like gentle exfoliation or scar healing in this particular product. The core brightening and oil-controlling ingredients you selected are already very effective.

Remember to formulate in a suitable base for oily skin (lightweight, non-comedogenic) and always use sun protection daily when using brightening ingredients.