Formulation Advice

Based on your revised formula and the staff's feedback:

Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)

You asked if reducing Soy Extract to 5% is okay or if it should be removed, and what to use for collagen stimulation if removed.

• Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein) is included for its antioxidant properties, ability to stimulate collagen, provide moisture, and inhibit melanin production and age spots.
• The staff suggested reducing or removing it because at high concentrations (like your initial 10%), it might feel sticky, especially for oily skin. Reducing it to 5% is a good compromise to retain some benefits while potentially improving texture for oily skin.
• If you choose to remove Soy Extract entirely to avoid any potential stickiness, you could consider other ingredients known for collagen stimulation or anti-aging benefits. Some natural options include:
  • Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex): This pea extract is known for its anti-aging properties and can help improve skin elasticity and firmness, contributing to a reduction in wrinkles. A typical usage rate is around 1-3%.
  • Pure-Bakuchiol: Often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol has shown efficacy in reducing signs of aging, including improving collagen production and reducing wrinkles, without the potential irritation of retinol. A typical usage rate is around 0.5-1%. Please check the product page for specific usage instructions.
• Whether to keep Soy Extract at a lower percentage or replace it depends on your texture preference and desired focus. Keeping it at 5% might still offer some collagen benefits while being less heavy than 10%. Replacing it with Pea-Ex or Bakuchiol would provide alternative collagen-boosting mechanisms.

Faster Natural Whitening

You asked for natural ingredients for faster whitening once your skin has healed from the peeling.

• Your current revised formula already includes Mahad (Oxyresveratrol), WhiteCumin 2x (Turmeric Extract), and Lemon Skin (Lemon Peel Bioferment), all of which have skin brightening properties. Lemon Skin also has a mild exfoliating effect which can help with radiance, though at 2% it shouldn't cause significant peeling unless combined with other exfoliating factors (like your face wash).
• Once your skin barrier is healthy again, you could consider adding other natural whitening ingredients to enhance the effect. Options include:
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin type): While your formula has Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) for anti-inflammatory benefits, the Glabridin type is specifically known for its potent tyrosinase inhibiting (whitening) activity. It can be used at 1-2%.
  • GlyciWhite: This ingredient has been shown to counteract melanin production effectively and is gentle on the skin. It is typically used at 3-10% (recommended 5%).
  • GentiWhite (Methyl Gentisate): Derived from Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, GentiWhite is considered a safe and effective whitening agent that works by inhibiting tyrosinase. It is typically used at 0.2%.
• Adding one or a combination of these after your skin has fully recovered could help achieve a faster whitening result. Remember to introduce new ingredients gradually and monitor your skin's response.

Cream Texture

Regarding the clear, gel-like texture with Light Cream Maker, the staff explained this happens when there is no oil phase. Adding about 3% oil (like Rose Hip Oil) would result in a white cream texture. Alternatively, switching to Luxury Cream Maker would give a white cream texture even without an oil phase. The air bubbles are normal and will dissipate over time.

Next Steps

1. Focus on healing your skin and identifying the cause of the peeling (likely your face wash, as you suspected). Use gentle products during this time.
2. Once your skin is healthy and no longer peeling, you can proceed with the revised formula.
3. If you want to enhance whitening, consider adding one of the suggested natural whitening ingredients (Licorice Extract - Glabridin type, GlyciWhite, or GentiWhite) at the recommended usage rate.
4. If you decide to remove Soy Extract, consider replacing it with Pisum Sativum Extract or Pure-Bakuchiol for collagen support.
5. Choose your cream maker based on whether you want to include an oil phase for a white cream (Light Cream Maker + oil) or get a white cream without oil (Luxury Cream Maker).

Remember to always make small test batches when modifying a formula.