Formulation Advice: Emulsifier, Oil Phase, and Absorption for a Cosmetic Formula

Asked by: patcharinexo3079 On: December 14, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am creating a cosmetic formula with the following components:
1 coconut triglycerides 7%
2 Fatty alcohol 3%
3 Emulsifier 3%
4 Passion flower oil 7%
5 Glycerin 3%
6 Probio-Protect 1-3%
7 Powder extract 1-5%
8 water
Could you recommend an Emulsifier for this formula? Do I need to adjust the amount of oil in this formula, or do you have any other recommendations? Based on this formula, will it be difficult for the product to absorb into the skin? Thank you.

Answer

Formulation Advice

Regarding your formula with coconut triglycerides, fatty alcohol, emulsifier, passion flower oil, glycerin, Probio-Protect, powder extract, and water, here is some advice:

Emulsifier Recommendation

For an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion like this formula appears to be, you need an effective O/W emulsifier. Based on the available options, consider:

  • Sucrose Cream Maker: This is a natural-based O/W emulsifier that can create stable emulsions with a light, non-oily, silky skin feel. It is used in the oil phase.
  • CreamMaker EG: While primarily a thickener and stabilizer, it can also function as a co-emulsifier and is suitable for cold process formulations. It helps improve texture and provides a soft, light feel with good pick-up ability. It is typically mixed in the water phase or added during emulsification.

Fatty alcohols like Myristyl Alcohol or Stearyl Alcohol in your formula act as co-emulsifiers and thickeners, helping to stabilize the emulsion and improve texture.

Oil Phase Percentage

The total oil/solid phase in your formula (coconut triglycerides, fatty alcohol, passion flower oil, emulsifier) is around 20% (excluding the powder extract, which could vary). This is a moderate oil phase percentage, suitable for a lotion or light cream. Whether you need to adjust it depends on the desired richness and feel. A higher oil phase will result in a richer, potentially slower-absorbing product, while a lower oil phase will be lighter and absorb faster.

Skin Absorption

The absorption rate depends on the specific ingredients used. Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is known for being lightweight and easily absorbed, contributing to a non-greasy feel. The choice of emulsifier also significantly impacts how the product feels and absorbs. Emulsifiers like Sucrose Cream Maker and CreamMaker EG are designed to provide a lighter, less oily feel and good absorption. The fatty alcohol also influences the final texture and feel. The powder extract's impact on absorption will depend on its solubility and properties.

Overall, with ingredients like Fractionated Coconut Oil and appropriate emulsifiers, the formula should have reasonably good absorption, but the exact feel will require testing and potential adjustment based on your preference.