Formulation advice for acne-prone, oily skin with dark spots & wrinkles, plus practical tips

Asked by: pandaza_kawkang On: September 05, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on my skin concerns (oiliness, clogged pores, inflammatory acne, dark spots, redness, rough texture, large pores, sagging, premature wrinkles) and using Benzac (which causes dryness/irritation), I have developed two cream formulas and have some questions.

  • Day Cream Formula:

    • Base: Pure Aloe Vera Gel
    • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 10%
    • SPF Protector (SPF Protect Ultra™ III): 20%
    • AminoSilk™: 3%
    • Question: Is this formula suitable, and how does AminoSilk™ affect texture?
  • Night Cream Formula (Revised):

    • Base: Pure Aloe Vera Gel
    • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™ or Extreme-B3™): 5%
    • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4%
    • Licorice extract (Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)): 1%
    • Zinc PCA: 1%
    • Ceramide (Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)): 5%
    • Adenosine Complex (Pure-Adenosine™): 5%
    • Question: Is this revised formula suitable for night use, focusing on repair and addressing concerns?
  • Additional Questions:

    • Does Zinc PCA make the texture thinner, and is Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) or Pro Polymer™ Silk needed to thicken it?
    • How can I measure Pro Polymer™ accurately without proper measuring tools?
    • Regarding packaging, will the raw materials I order come in ready-to-use product containers, or do I need to buy separate packaging for the finished cream?
    • Is this formula suitable for my mother, or do I need to adjust it for her skin type and age?

Answer

Formula Analysis and Additional Recommendations for Your Skin Condition

Based on your questions and the previous discussion, here is a summary and response regarding your proposed formulas and related concerns:

From your skin condition, which includes oiliness, clogged pores, inflammatory acne, dark spots, redness, rough texture, large pores, sagging, and premature wrinkles, as well as the use of Benzac which can cause dryness and irritation, the recommendations will focus on skincare that strengthens the skin barrier while addressing these various concerns.

Day Cream Formula

Your proposed formula is Pure Aloe Vera Gel as a base, Azelaic Acid 10%, SPF Protector 20%, and AminoSilk 3%.

  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel: This is a good base for providing moisture and soothing the skin, which is suitable for skin that might be irritated from acne treatments.
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): At a concentration of 10%, it has properties to help reduce acne, control oil, and brighten the skin, reducing dark spots, which aligns with your needs.
  • SPF Protector (SPF Protect Ultra™ III): Including sunscreen in a day cream is crucial for protecting the skin from sun exposure, which can worsen dark spots and damage the skin.
  • AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine): As you suspected, AminoSilk™ is an ingredient that helps adjust the texture of the product to be soft and smooth like powder, making it easier to spread and feel more comfortable on the skin.

Considerations for the Day Formula:

  • Adding Azelaic Acid to an aloe vera gel base might soften the gel texture, as cosmeceutical7 advised. If you prefer a thicker texture, you can consider adding Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) at approximately 0.5-1% to help increase the viscosity of the gel.
  • This formula contains ingredients that help reduce acne, control oil, and reduce dark spots, making it suitable as a day cream to manage these issues along with sun protection.

Night Cream Formula (Revised)

Your revised formula based on cosmeceutical7's suggestions, which you plan to use as a night cream, is Pure Aloe Vera Gel as a base, Vitamin B3 5%, N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine 4%, Licorice extract 1%, Zinc PCA 1%, Ceramide 5%, and Adenosine Complex 5%.

  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel: Continues to be a good base for providing moisture and soothing the skin at night.
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™ or Extreme-B3™): At a concentration of 5%, it has various properties including reducing wrinkles, reducing redness/dark spots, strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oil, and brightening the skin.
  • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): At a concentration of 4%, it works well with Vitamin B3 to help brighten the skin, reduce dark spots, and also stimulates the skin's natural production of Hyaluronic Acid, making the skin soft, moisturized, and reducing wrinkles.
  • Licorice extract (Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)): At a concentration of 1%, it helps reduce inflammation, reduce redness from acne, reduce irritation, and control skin oiliness, which is suitable for your skin condition.
  • Zinc PCA: At a concentration of 1%, it is excellent for reducing skin oiliness, accelerating wound healing (e.g., acne scars), and stimulating collagen production.
  • Ceramide (Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)): At a concentration of 5%, it is crucial for restoring and strengthening the skin barrier, which might be weakened from using acne medication. It helps reduce water loss, making the skin stronger and less prone to irritation and allergies.
  • Adenosine Complex (Pure-Adenosine™): At a concentration of 5% (generally recommended 0.1-1.0% according to the Pure-Adenosine™ product information), it is an important component for skin cell function, helping to restore and repair the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

This night formula focuses on skin repair, strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oil, reducing acne and marks, and reducing wrinkles, which aligns with your goal of intensive skin nourishment at night. Using only sunscreen during the day is also a good option. The key is consistent skincare and adjusting the formula or ingredients based on how your skin responds.

Additional Questions

  • Does Zinc PCA make the texture thinner, and is Pro Polymer™ needed?
    Zinc PCA is an electrolyte, which can reduce the viscosity or thin out gels or creams thickened with certain gelling agents like Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker), as indicated by cosmeceutical7 and the Pro Polymer™ product information. Therefore, if you want a thicker texture after adding Zinc PCA, adding Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) or Pro Polymer™ Silk can help.
  • Measuring Pro Polymer™ without measuring tools:
    Achieving consistent and effective cosmetic formulations requires accurate measurement of ingredients. Estimating quantities without proper tools is very difficult and can lead to inconsistent texture and results. To get the best outcome, it is recommended to use a small digital scale that can measure accurately in grams or milligrams.
  • Product Packaging:
    As the staff member informed you, the raw materials you order will be packaged in containers according to the size specified on the product page. These are containers for the raw ingredients, not for the final product you mix yourself. Therefore, you will need to provide your own containers for your finished creams.
  • Formula for Mother:
    cosmeceutical7 correctly advised that skin conditions and needs vary greatly between individuals, especially with age differences. A formula suitable for your skin concerns might not be appropriate for your mother. You should consider adjusting the formula specifically for your mother's skin type and concerns.

In summary, your revised night formula is good and addresses the skin concerns you have, including acne, oiliness, marks, wrinkles, and strengthening the skin barrier weakened by acne medication. Using only sunscreen during the day is also a good option. The important thing is consistent skincare and adjusting the formula or ingredients based on how your skin responds.