Formulation Advice for Anti-Aging Serum/Gel for Combination Skin
คำถาม
I am developing a serum/gel formulation for combination skin with the following goals: reducing wrinkles, improving skin texture and hydration, preventing future wrinkles, and achieving a non-oily feel. I plan to use the following ingredients:
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
- Natto Gum
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
- Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
- Reservoir-Tech
Could you provide advice on formulating this product, including necessary additions for texture, stability, and preservation, and suggest a sample formula with mixing instructions?
คำตอบ
Cosmetic Formulation Advice
Based on the ingredients you've listed and your skin type (combination) and goals (reducing wrinkles, improving texture and hydration, preventing future wrinkles, non-oily), here is advice on your formulation:
Ingredient Compatibility
The ingredients you listed are generally compatible in a water-based formulation. However, it's important to consider the optimal pH range for maximum efficacy and stability of certain ingredients, particularly Hi-EGCG and Willow Bark Extract, which prefer a pH between 4.0-6.5. Safe-B3 also works best in this range (4.0-7.0). Natto Gum is a weak electrolyte and while compatible with AnyGel, it's something to be aware of.
Necessary Additions
Based on your goals and the nature of the ingredients:
- Preservative: A preservative is essential for any water-based formulation to prevent bacterial and fungal growth, ensuring product safety and longevity. Mild Preserved Eco is a suitable choice.
- Gelling Agent: To create a serum or gel texture that is easier to apply and less likely to feel watery, adding a gelling agent like AnyGel is highly recommended, as suggested by the staff. This also helps achieve a non-oily feel.
- Exfoliant: To address rough texture and enhance the effects on wrinkles and smoothness, incorporating an exfoliant like Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) is beneficial. Reservoir-Tech can help manage potential irritation from exfoliants by controlling absorption.
- Antioxidant Stabilizer: Hi-EGCG is sensitive to metal ions and light. Adding ActiveProtec™ OX at 1% is recommended to help stabilize the Hi-EGCG and maintain its antioxidant properties.
Suggested Formulation (Using Maximum Recommended Concentrations)
Here is a suggested formulation based on your ingredients and the recommended additions, using the maximum recommended concentrations where appropriate:
- DI-Water: Up to 100%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 10%
- Natto Gum: 10%
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: 5%
- AnyGel™: 2.5%
- Mild Preserved Eco™: 1.5% (adjust up to 2% based on challenge testing)
- ActiveProtec™ OX: 1%
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000): 5%
- Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract): 5%
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid): 10%
- Reservoir-Tech: 5%
Total: 55.2% + DI-Water to 100%
Mixing Order
- In your DI-water, add Disodium EDTA and mix until dissolved.
- Add Safe-B3, Natto Gum, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, AnyGel, Mild Preserved Eco, and ActiveProtec™ OX to the water phase. Mix thoroughly until all powders are dissolved and the gel texture is formed by the AnyGel. Gentle heating (below 40°C) can help dissolution but is often not necessary.
- Allow the mixture to cool to below 40°C if any heating was used.
- Add Matrixyl 3000, Hi-EGCG, and Willow Bark Extract. Mix gently to incorporate without creating excessive foam.
- Add Reservoir-Tech and mix to ensure it is well dispersed throughout the gel.
- Check the pH of the final product and adjust it to be within the 4.0-6.5 range for optimal stability and efficacy of the sensitive ingredients.
Storage
Store the finished product in an opaque container away from direct sunlight and heat to help maintain the stability and efficacy of light-sensitive ingredients like Hi-EGCG.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Disodium EDTA
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
Natto Gum Extract
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Reservoir-Tech
AnyGel™