Formulation Advice for Anti-Aging, Whitening, and Skin Barrier

Asked by: saha_111 On: March 21, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am seeking formulation advice for two purposes:

  1. For my sister's skin, which does not have wrinkles yet, but she wants preventative anti-aging and whitening effects, while keeping the cost reasonable. What ingredients would you recommend for this goal, focusing on collagen stimulation and whitening prevention?
  2. Regarding my own existing formulation:
    • My current base uses NMAA + Beta Glucan + Sodium Lactate Plus + Hyaluronic Acid base.
    • I want to add Lemon Peel Bioferment and Isoflavone. Are these compatible with my existing base ingredients?
    • I am considering replacing the Hyaluronic Acid base with an Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) base to save costs. Is this acceptable?
    • I plan to remove L-Carnitine from my formula as my main goal is exfoliation and addressing clogged pores. Is this the right approach, and are there better alternatives like BHA for these specific concerns?

Additionally, are there any other ingredients, besides Vitamin B3, that are good for strengthening the skin barrier?

Answer

Formulation Advice for Anti-Aging, Whitening, and Skin Barrier

Here is some advice regarding your questions about anti-aging, whitening, and your personal formulation.

For Your Sister (Preventative Anti-Aging + Whitening)

For skin that does not yet have wrinkles but wants to prevent them and achieve whitening, focusing on stimulating collagen and protecting the skin is key. As the staff mentioned, ingredients like Resveratrol and DMAE are suitable for prevention, while Argireline and Pepha-Tight are more targeted towards existing wrinkles.

For a potent preventative formula focusing on collagen stimulation and whitening within a budget, consider these ingredients:

  • Peptides: Peptides such as Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) and Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) are excellent for stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity, which helps prevent the formation of wrinkles. They work by signaling the skin to repair itself and produce more structural proteins.
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) is a versatile ingredient. It helps stimulate collagen production, improves skin elasticity, reduces hyperpigmentation for a brighter complexion, and significantly strengthens the skin barrier. It's a great all-rounder for both anti-aging and whitening prevention.
  • Whitening Agents: Besides Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin is a well-known and effective ingredient for reducing melanin production and brightening the skin tone safely. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid) is a stable form of Vitamin C that also offers whitening and antioxidant benefits.
  • Antioxidants: Trans-Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from damage that leads to aging and can also assist with brightening. Pure-Bakuchiol™ is another ingredient known for its anti-aging properties, acting similarly to retinol but often with less irritation, making it suitable for prevention.
  • Advanced Options: Pure-NMN™ (Nicotinamide Mononucleotide) is a newer ingredient being researched for its potential in protecting skin cells from oxidative stress and supporting skin health, which could contribute to preventative anti-aging.

To stay within budget, you might choose a combination of 2-3 key actives at recommended usage rates in a simple base like a serum or gel. For example, a combination of a peptide (like Pep®-Coll or Matrixyl 3000), Vitamin B3, and Alpha Arbutin or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid would be a powerful preventative formula.

For Your Own Formulation

Regarding your formulation using NMAA + Beta Glucan + Sodium Lactate Plus + Hyaluronic Acid, and adding Lemon Peel Bioferment + Isoflavone:

  • Compatibility: As confirmed by the staff, adding Lemon Peel Bioferment and Isoflavone (specifically Isoflaqua™ (Water Soluble Soy Isoflavones)) to your base is generally fine, and there should not be significant pH issues between these ingredients.
  • Base: Replacing the Hyaluronic Acid base with an Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) base is acceptable for cost-saving and will still provide moisturizing benefits.
  • L-Carnitine: You mentioned removing L-Carnitine, which is reasonable if your primary goal is exfoliation and addressing clogged pores. As the staff noted, BHA is generally more proven and recommended for these specific concerns based on available research.

Skin Barrier Strengthening Ingredients (Besides B3)

Besides Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), which is excellent for the skin barrier, Beta Glucan is highly recommended and already in your base formulation. It is known for its ability to strengthen the skin's immune system and reduce irritation, significantly helping to restore a damaged skin barrier.

Another ingredient that can help support the skin barrier and soothe irritation is Prebio-Man (D-Mannose Skin Prebiotic). It works by helping to balance the skin's microbiome and reduce inflammation, contributing to a healthier barrier function.

In summary, your planned formulation with Beta Glucan, Sodium Lactate Plus, Lemon Peel Bioferment, and Isoflavone in an Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) base is viable. For skin barrier support, continue using Beta Glucan and consider adding Prebio-Man.

Hope this helps with your formulations!