Formulation Advice for Complex Active Blend
คำถาม
Can a ready-made base be used for a serum/cream containing high concentrations of Niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, Bakuchiol, DMI, Melatonin Forte, EGF, Copper Peptide, Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, Matrixyl 3000, and Retinal EZ? Are preservatives and stabilizers necessary? If a base is not suitable, what formulation method and emulsifiers are recommended?
คำตอบ
Formulation Advice for Complex Active Blend
Based on the list of active ingredients and their desired concentrations (Niacinamide 5%, N acetyl glucosamide 4%, Bakuchiol USA 1%, DMI 3%, Melatonin Forte 1%, EGF 3%, Copper Peptide 2%, Acetyl Hexapeptide 8 3%, Matrixyl 3000 3%, Retinal EZ 5%), it is highly unlikely that a standard ready-made base can be used directly.
Here's why:
- Diverse Solubility: The ingredients include water-soluble components like Niacinamide, N acetyl glucosamide, EGF, Copper Peptide, Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, and Matrixyl 3000, alongside oil-soluble/dispersible ingredients like Bakuchiol and Retinal EZ, and a solvent like DMI. Combining these effectively requires a carefully designed emulsion system (like a cream or lotion) rather than simply adding them to a pre-made base.
- Ingredient Compatibility and Stability: Many of these actives have specific pH requirements for stability and optimal function. For example, Copper Peptide is most stable between pH 4.5-7.4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 between 3.5-6.5, EGF around 3-5, and Bakuchiol below 6.5. Retinal is also sensitive to pH, light, and heat. Mixing them without controlling the overall formula pH and ensuring compatibility can lead to degradation and reduced efficacy. A ready-made base may not provide the necessary environment for all these ingredients.
- High Active Load: The total concentration of active ingredients is substantial. Adding this high percentage of diverse actives to a ready-made base will likely disrupt its structure, stability, and texture.
- Specific Mixing Requirements: Several ingredients, such as EGF, Bakuchiol, and Retinal EZ, have specific instructions regarding mixing temperature (below 40°C, or avoiding heat) and order of addition (usually in the final step). Melatonin Forte is also sensitive to air and heat. These requirements are difficult to meet when simply incorporating into a finished base.
Regarding Preservatives and "activeprotecox":
- Preservatives: Yes, if your final product contains water (which is necessary for many of these ingredients and to form an emulsion), a preservative system is essential to prevent microbial contamination and ensure product safety and shelf life. This is true regardless of whether you start with a base or formulate from scratch.
- "activeprotecox": This term is likely referring to stabilizers or antioxidants. Given the presence of sensitive ingredients like Retinal EZ, Melatonin Forte, and Bakuchiol (which can help stabilize Retinal), incorporating antioxidants and stabilizers is crucial to protect these ingredients from degradation due to light, air, or metal ions (Bakuchiol description mentions the need for chelating agents). These would be necessary components of a stable formulation.
Formulation Guidance:
Since a ready-made base is not suitable, creating this formulation requires expertise in cosmetic chemistry. It involves designing a stable emulsion that can effectively incorporate both water-soluble and oil-soluble components while maintaining the optimal pH and stability for each active ingredient. This is a complex process that goes beyond simply providing a list of emulsifiers.
Key considerations for a custom formulation would include:
- Selecting appropriate emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers to create a stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
- Using penetration enhancers like DMI (as mentioned in the Bakuchiol description) to improve delivery of actives.
- Incorporating stabilizers, antioxidants (like those potentially referred to as "activeprotecox"), and chelating agents to protect sensitive ingredients.
- Carefully controlling the manufacturing process, including mixing temperatures and order of addition.
- Adjusting and maintaining the final pH within a range that balances the requirements of all active ingredients.
- Selecting appropriate packaging to protect the light- and air-sensitive ingredients (like Retinal EZ and Melatonin Forte).
- Including a broad-spectrum preservative system.
Attempting to formulate such a complex product without proper knowledge and equipment can lead to an unstable, ineffective, or potentially irritating product. It is strongly recommended to consult with a cosmetic chemist for assistance with this specific formulation.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Melatonin Forte™
Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Natural Retinol, 99% Pure, USA)
Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF, Recombinant)