Formulation Advice for Dry Skin with Pigmentation and Wrinkles

Thank you for providing your formulation and questions. Addressing your concerns about dry skin, pigmentation (melasma, freckles, dark spots), and wrinkles, here is some advice:

Your Proposed Formula Adjustment

Your original formula percentages added up to more than 100%. It's important for the total percentage of all ingredients to equal exactly 100% for a stable and effective formulation. Additionally, for dry and mature skin, increasing the oil phase is beneficial, as suggested by the staff.

Some of the extracts you included (Pao Sa, Red/Brown/Green Seaweed, Full & Lift) were not clearly identified or commented on by the staff, and removing them helps bring the total percentage down and simplifies the formula. We have adjusted the percentages of the remaining ingredients to sum to 100%, keeping in mind typical usage rates and the staff's warning about high levels of whitening agents.

Here is a suggested adjusted formula:

• Distilled Water: 51%
• Satin Cream Maker: 3%
• Olive Oil (Extra Virgin): 5%
• Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised): 5%
• Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin 95%): 2%
• Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): 10%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): 2%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
• Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid): 2% (Adjusted from 5% to reduce potential irritation)
• L-Carnitine: 3%
• MOIST72™: 3%
• Alpha Arbutin: 1%
• Reservoir-Tech: 3%
• Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): 1% (Adjusted from 3% to the recommended maximum of 2%, ideally 1%)
• Mild Preserved Eco™: 1%

This adjusted formula totals 100% and provides a higher oil content suitable for dry skin while including multiple active ingredients targeting pigmentation and wrinkles at generally recommended levels. Please note that even at these levels, the combination of multiple whitening agents (Vitamin B3, Tranexamic Acid, Willow Bark Extract, Alpha Arbutin, Activated Resorcinol) may still cause irritation for sensitive skin.

Wild Yam Extract Solubility

Regarding your question about Wild Yam Extract, the staff's reply confirms that Wild Yam Extract dissolves in oil and should be mixed into the oil phase of your formulation.

Salicylic Acid Formula Irritation

You also asked about the salicylic acid formula causing itching for your son. As the staff explained, the combination of Salicylic Acid (Liquid) at 10% (equivalent to 2% active salicylic acid) and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder) at 4% (equivalent to 2% active salicylic acid) results in a total active salicylic acid concentration of 4%. This exceeds the regulatory limit of 2% active salicylic acid for cosmetic products and is the likely cause of the irritation.

To correct this formula and reduce irritation, you should follow the staff's advice to dilute the mixture by half. This means taking your existing mixture and adding an equal amount (100%) of the remaining ingredients from the original formula (Pro Polymer, Mild Preserved, and Distilled Water). For example, if you made 100g of the original formula, you would add another 100g consisting of Pro Polymer, Mild Preserved, and Distilled Water in the same ratios as the original formula (1% Pro Polymer, 1% Mild Preserved, and the rest Distilled Water). This will effectively halve the concentration of all ingredients, bringing the active salicylic acid down to the permitted 2% level and reducing the likelihood of irritation.