Formulation Advice for Sensitive, Dehydrated, Acne-Prone Skin with Wrinkles

Thank you for providing your detailed skin concerns and proposed formulations. Based on your skin type (oily T-zone, dehydrated, dry cheekbones, easily clogged, sensitive, reactive to Vitamin C) and goals (brightening, wrinkle reduction, softening), here is an evaluation of your formulas and some suggested adjustments.

Evaluation of Your Proposed Formulas

Formula 1 (Softening, Moisturizing, Wrinkle Reduction)

• Ingredients: Apple Stem cell 5%, Green tea extract 5%, Royal jelly fresh 10%, Argireline 10%, Matrixyl 3000 5%, Phenoxyethnol 1%, Light Cream Maker 1.5%, Disodium EDTA 0.2%, REGU-AGE 5%, Water.
• Feedback:
  • As discussed previously, Light Cream Maker requires an oil phase (at least 5%) to form a cream texture. Your formula contains no oil, so Light Cream Maker will not function as intended. Given your sensitivity to oils and tendency for clogged pores, a gel-based formula is more suitable.
  • Royal Jelly Fresh at 10% is quite high and might contribute to a sticky texture when combined with other actives, especially in a gel base. You might consider reducing this amount.
  • Argireline at 10% is the maximum recommended usage. While generally considered gentle, for sensitive skin, you might start with a lower concentration (e.g., 5%) and increase if tolerated.
  • This formula contains several potent actives. While it can be used around the eyes, the high concentration of multiple ingredients might be too much for the delicate eye area, potentially causing stickiness or irritation. Creating a separate, simpler eye formula is often recommended.

Formula 2 (Brightening, Firming, Dark Spot Reduction)

• Ingredients: Alpha Arbutin 2%, Pure Aloe vera Gel 30%, Light Cream Maker 1.5%, Phenoxyethnol 1%, Disodium EDTA 0.2%, Vitamin B3 5%, GlucoBright 4%, Lift -Now 5%, Water.
• Feedback:
  • Again, Light Cream Maker will not work in this oil-free formula. A gel maker is needed.
  • Using Pure Aloe Vera Gel as a base is problematic when also using other thickeners like Light Cream Maker (or a gel maker like Pro Polymer). Pure Aloe Vera Gel already contains a gelling agent (Pro Polymer) and other ingredients. It's best to use purified water as your base and add ingredients individually, including Aloe Vera Extract if desired, along with your chosen gel maker.
  • Lift-Now at 5% can cause a strong tightening sensation which might feel uncomfortable. It's recommended to start at 1-2% and adjust as needed.
  • Vitamin B3 at 5% is within the recommended range for facial skin, but monitor for sensitivity.

Recommended Approach: Gel-Based Formulas

Considering your skin's tendency for clogged pores with oils/silicones and preference for a lighter feel, a gel-based system using Pro Polymer is the most suitable option for both formulas.

Here are revised suggestions for two separate gel formulas:

Suggested Formula A (Face: Softening, Moisturizing, Wrinkle Reduction)

This formula focuses on hydration, softening, and overall wrinkle reduction for the face.

• Purified Water: Adjust to 100%
• Pro Polymer: 0.8 - 1.5% (adjust for desired gel thickness)
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
• Phenoxyethanol: 1%
• Apple Stem Cell Extract: 3 - 5%
• Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG): 1 - 3%
• Royal Jelly Fresh: 5 - 10% (start lower if concerned about stickiness)
• Argireline: 5 - 10% (start lower, e.g., 5%, due to sensitivity)
• Matrixyl 3000: 3 - 5%
• Optional: DMAE (SkinTight MD): 1 - 2% (for added firming, test sensitivity)
• Optional: Soothing/Moisturizing ingredients like Panthenol (Vitamin B5) or Allantoin.

Mixing Instructions: Mix Disodium EDTA and Phenoxyethanol in water. Slowly sprinkle Pro Polymer while stirring until a gel forms. Add other active ingredients one by one, ensuring each is fully dissolved before adding the next. Adjust water percentage to 100% total.

Suggested Formula B (Face & Eye Area: Brightening, Wrinkle Reduction, Dark Spots)

This formula targets brightening, dark spots, and wrinkles, suitable for both the face and the more delicate eye area by adjusting Vitamin B3.

• Purified Water: Adjust to 100%
• Pro Polymer: 0.8 - 1.5% (adjust for desired gel thickness)
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
• Phenoxyethanol: 1%
• Alpha Arbutin: 2%
• Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3): 5% for face, reduce to 1-2% for eye area.
• GlucoBright: 4%
• Lift-Now: 1 - 2% (start lower to avoid tightness)
• REGU-AGE: 2 - 5% (specifically for eye area concerns, can be used on face too)
• Optional: DMAE (SkinTight MD): 1 - 2% (for added firming, test sensitivity)
• Optional: Soothing/Moisturizing ingredients like Panthenol (Vitamin B5) or Allantoin.

Mixing Instructions: Similar to Formula A. Mix Disodium EDTA and Phenoxyethanol in water. Slowly sprinkle Pro Polymer while stirring until a gel forms. Add other active ingredients one by one, ensuring each is fully dissolved before adding the next. Adjust water percentage to 100% total.

Important Considerations:

• Always perform a patch test with any new formulation, especially given your sensitive skin.
• Monitor your skin's reaction to the concentrations of actives, particularly Vitamin B3, Argireline, Lift-Now, and DMAE. You can always start at the lower end of the recommended range and gradually increase if your skin tolerates it.
• Ensure all ingredients are fully dissolved and incorporated for a smooth texture and optimal performance.

By switching to a Pro Polymer gel base and adjusting the concentrations of certain actives, you can create effective formulas that address your skin concerns without triggering clogged pores or irritation.