Formulation Advice for Highly Sensitive, Acne-Prone Skin

Asked by: phattharawalan.s On: August 06, 2012 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My facial skin is highly sensitive and reacts to oil, AHA, fragrance, and alcohol. I have an oily T-zone and very dry cheeks, large pores, and my skin is prone to acne.

Currently, the only product I can use without reaction is Aloe Vera. The only makeup remover product I can use without reaction is Bioderma, which has the following ingredients:

ingradients : WATER AQUA. PEG-6 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES, CUCUMIS SATIVUS (CUCUBER) FRUIT EXTRACT , MANNITOL , XYLITOL . RHAMNOSE , FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES , PROPYLENE GLYCOL , DISODIUM EDTA , CETRIMO-NIUM BROMIDE

Please provide advice.

Answer

Recommended Formulation Approach for Highly Sensitive Skin

Based on your skin profile, which is highly sensitive with reactions to oil, AHA, fragrance, and alcohol, and experiences oiliness in the T-zone, dryness on the cheeks, large pores, and acne, while tolerating Aloe Vera and certain ingredients in your Bioderma cleanser, a gentle and focused approach is best.

We recommend a simple formulation centered around ingredients known for their soothing, hydrating, and barrier-supporting properties that are also less likely to cause irritation.

Key Ingredients to Consider:

  • Aloe Vera: As you already know and tolerate, Aloe Vera is excellent for soothing irritation and providing hydration. Using an Aloe Vera gel base can be a good starting point.

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): This ingredient is highly beneficial for your concerns. It can help balance oil production in the T-zone, reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, improve the skin barrier function to help with dryness on the cheeks, and has anti-inflammatory properties that can assist with acne. For sensitive skin, it's best to use a high-purity grade of Niacinamide.

  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) & Allantoin: These are excellent for soothing and supporting the skin barrier. Some Aloe Vera gel bases already contain these beneficial ingredients.

Suggested Simple Formulation Concept:

A gentle, oil-free serum or gel using an Aloe Vera base with added Niacinamide.

For example, you could consider using a pre-made base like Aloe Vera Gel (Lite), which is designed for sensitive skin, is oil-free, absorbs quickly, and already contains Aloe Vera, Panthenol, and Allantoin. To this base, you could add a high-purity Niacinamide such as Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) or Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity) to address the oiliness, pores, and acne.

This combination focuses on hydration, soothing, and gentle support for your specific concerns without introducing common irritants like oils, strong exfoliants (AHA), fragrance, or alcohol.

Important Note:

Given your history of sensitivities, it is crucial to patch test any new ingredient or formulation on a small, inconspicuous area of your skin before applying it to your face. Start with a low concentration of Niacinamide (e.g., 2-5%) and gradually increase if tolerated.

By keeping the formulation simple and focusing on well-tolerated, multi-benefit ingredients, you can create a product that addresses your skin concerns while minimizing the risk of irritation.