Formulation Advice for Multiple Natural Products

Asked by: serendipity.mee On: March 24, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need advice on formulating several natural cosmetic products for sensitive skin:

  1. Pillow Mist: Using water, essential oil blend, Flora Solve Clear, Phenoxyethanol SA, and potentially Global Guard. I want to make it clear and long-lasting. Can Flora Fix enhance scent longevity in a water-based mist?
  2. Body Dry Oil Spray: Using Fractionated Coconut Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, other natural oils, and an essential oil blend. How can I achieve a light, non-greasy, dry feel that sprays well? How can I prevent rancidity? Can Flora Fix enhance scent longevity in this oil blend?
  3. Lip Gloss: Using a base of Castor Oil, other natural oils, butters, and waxes. I want to add purple color using water-soluble purple sweet potato extract. How can I incorporate this water-soluble color into the oil base? What natural emulsifier and preservative are suitable for this type of formula?
  4. Aloe Vera Gel: Using Aloe Vera Extract, 2-3 other water-soluble extracts, an essential oil blend, Hydrogenated Lecithin, a gelling agent, and a preservative. What are suitable natural gelling agents and preservatives? I've experienced stickiness when using Flora Solve Clear; how can I avoid this?

Answer

Formulation Advice for Natural Products

Here are some formulation suggestions and tips for your pillow mist, body dry oil spray, lip gloss, and aloe vera gel, focusing on natural ingredients and addressing your sensitive skin concerns.

Pillow Mist

For your pillow mist, the recommended formula using Flora Solve Clear as a solubilizer and Phenoxyethanol SA as a preservative is a good approach. This combination helps ensure the essential oils are well dispersed in the water phase for a clear mist and provides reliable preservation without needing precise pH adjustment like Global Guard. A water-based mist formulated this way should dry effectively on fabric like a pillow.

To enhance the scent longevity of your pillow mist, you can incorporate Flora Fix at a concentration of 3-5%. Mix Flora Fix directly into the water phase of your formulation.

Body Dry Oil Spray

Your proposed ingredients for a body dry oil spray (Fractionated Coconut Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Natural oil, and Essential Oil blend) are compatible. To achieve a light, non-greasy feel, prioritize using a higher percentage of Fractionated Coconut Oil, which is known for its fast absorption. You can adjust the ratios of the oils to find your preferred texture. Remember that you will need a spray head specifically designed for oils to create a fine mist.

To prevent your facial oil (and this body oil, as it's oil-based) from going rancid and to help mask the natural oil smell, add Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) at a rate of 0.02% to 0.1%. Mix ROE thoroughly into your oil phase.

For longer-lasting scent in your body oil, you can try adding Flora Fix. However, test its solubility in your specific oil blend first. If it dissolves, you can add it directly to the oil phase.

Lip Gloss with Purple Sweet Potato Color

Creating a lip gloss with water-soluble purple sweet potato extract requires careful formulation because oil and water don't naturally mix. You will need an emulsifier to combine the water-based color with your oil-based lip gloss ingredients (such as Castor Oil, other natural oils, butters, and waxes).

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a natural ingredient that can act as an emulsifier and help disperse the water-soluble color throughout the oil base.

A general process involves melting your oils, butters, and waxes. Separately, mix the sweet potato extract (potentially with a small amount of water if concentrated) with Hydrogenated Lecithin. Gradually add the water/color/lecithin mixture to the melted oil phase while stirring to emulsify.

Since you are introducing water, a preservative is necessary to prevent microbial growth. Consider natural options like NaturePreserve Ultra, NaturePreserve LB2, Coco-Preserve, or Global Guard 221, added at their recommended usage rates and within their effective pH ranges.

Aloe Vera Gel

For your aloe vera gel containing Aloe Vera Extract, water-soluble extracts, Essential Oil blend, Hydrogenated Lecithin, preservative, and gelling agent, here are some natural ingredient options and typical percentages:

  • Water: Balance of the formula.
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1-10%.
  • Other Water-Soluble Extracts: 0.5-5% each.
  • Essential Oil Blend: 0.1-1%. You will need a solubilizer to disperse the essential oil in the water-based gel.
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin: 0.5-5%.
  • Gelling Agent:
    • AnyGel: 1-2.5% for a non-greasy gel resistant to electrolytes.
    • Reshape Gel: 3-7% for a unique "memory gel" texture.
  • Preservative: Choose a natural, water-soluble option like NaturePreserve Ultra (0.75-2.0%, pH 3-6), NaturePreserve LB2 (0.5-1.0%, pH 2-6.5), Coco-Preserve (1-2%, pH 4-8), Global Guard 221 (0.5-1.1%, pH 2-7), or PaeoniaPreserve (0.5-2.0%, avoid heat >60°C).

General Mixing Steps: Hydrate the gelling agent in the water phase (water + extracts). Separately, mix essential oil with a solubilizer. Add the solubilized essential oil to the gel. Add Hydrogenated Lecithin and the preservative, mixing thoroughly after each addition. Adjust pH if needed based on your preservative choice.

Regarding the stickiness you experienced with Flora Solve, ensure you mix the Flora Solve with the essential oil first until fully dissolved before adding this mixture to the water phase. Adding water directly to Flora Solve can cause it to become thick and sticky.