Formulation Advice

Hair Treatment for Stiffness (Leave-in)

You are looking to treat hair stiffness caused by dyeing and perming.

Your initial idea of using just Pure Keratin, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Water is a good starting point, as Pure Keratin helps to restore damaged hair protein. However, for hair that is very stiff from chemical treatments, adding conditioning agents is highly beneficial.

Your second proposed formula is more comprehensive:

• Pure Keratin 2%
• B5 ExtraLite 2%
• N-Acetyl Cysteine 1%
• Phenoxyethanol SA 1%
• Water to 100%

This formula includes Pure Keratin for protein repair, B5 ExtraLite for moisture and strengthening, and N-Acetyl Cysteine. N-Acetyl Cysteine is a component of hair keratin and can help strengthen hair roots and reduce hair loss, so it complements the action of Keratin rather than being redundant.

You asked if this formula should be made into a cream using Light Cream Maker and if Cyclomethicone 5% can replace the oil part. While Light Cream Maker can create a cream texture, it is designed for oil-in-water emulsions. Cyclomethicone is a silicone, not a traditional oil, and Light Cream Maker may not be the best choice for emulsifying silicone, especially without a true oil phase.

For a leave-in treatment for stiff hair, a spray or a light serum/lotion texture is often preferred as it doesn't weigh down the hair. A spray formula, as suggested, using Silicone Hi-Cond is an excellent approach. Silicone Hi-Cond is a water-dispersible silicone specifically designed for hair conditioning, providing softness, smoothness, and detangling properties, which directly addresses the "stiff like a broom" issue.

A suggested spray formula could be:

• Pure Keratin 2%
• B5 ExtraLite 1-2%
• Silicone Hi-Cond 1.5-3% (can increase up to 4-5% for very damaged hair)
• Phenoxyethanol SA 1%
• Water to 100%

This type of formula can be sprayed onto hair and lightly smoothed through.

Regarding adding Sea Kelp Extract, it is beneficial for hair as it provides moisture, shine, and can help make hair appear thicker. Adding 1-3% Sea Kelp Extract to your hair formula could further enhance its moisturizing and nourishing properties.

Skin Balancing Serum for Dehydrated, Irritated, Oily Skin

You have proposed a formula for skin that is oily but dehydrated, with dry cheeks and sensitivity to exfoliants:

• B3 5%
• MSM 5%
• Zinc PCA 1%
• N-Acetyl Cysteine 1%
• B5 ExtraLite 1%
• Licorice (Licochalcone A) 1%
• Apple Stem Cell 2.5%
• Eye Preserved 1%
• Pentylene Glycol 3%
• Water to 100%

This formula includes several excellent ingredients for your skin concerns:

• B3 (Niacinamide): Helps improve skin barrier function, reduce redness, control oil, and has anti-inflammatory benefits.
• MSM: Can help control oil production and has anti-inflammatory properties.
• Zinc PCA: Reduces oiliness, helps with acne, accelerates wound healing, and reduces inflammation.
• N-Acetyl Cysteine: An antioxidant that can aid in wound healing and has anti-inflammatory effects.
• B5 ExtraLite: Provides hydration, reduces inflammation, and helps heal the skin barrier.
• Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): Known for its strong anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and redness-reducing properties.
• Apple Stem Cell: Supports skin cell longevity and can help with anti-aging.
• Pentylene Glycol: Acts as a humectant (attracts water) and can help with ingredient penetration and preservation.
• Eye Preserved: A gentle preservative suitable for sensitive skin.

Regarding your questions about concentrations:

• B3: While some brands use 10%, there is no strong research confirming it is significantly more effective than 5% for general benefits like barrier function, redness, or oil control. 5% is a well-supported and effective concentration.
• Apple Stem Cell: Manufacturer research indicates that using 5% Apple Stem Cell provides better results than 2.5%.
• Rose Stem Cell: Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™) is not encapsulated in liposomes.

You asked about making this formula a gel using Light Cream Maker and noted it didn't gel well at 2% in water. Light Cream Maker is not compatible with electrolytes, and your formula contains Zinc PCA, which is an electrolyte. This is why it did not form a proper gel. For formulas containing electrolytes, Pro Polymer is a suitable gel maker. You would likely need to use Pro Polymer at a higher concentration (e.g., 2-3%) in the presence of electrolytes like Zinc PCA to achieve a gel texture.

To enhance the absorption of the active ingredients in this serum, you could consider adding Reservoir-Tech at 3%. This ingredient helps retain actives on and under the skin, allowing for gradual absorption and potentially reducing irritation while prolonging the effect.

Given your skin's tendency for redness with exfoliants, it is advisable to avoid harsh acid exfoliants like AHA and BHA. Gentler alternatives like enzyme exfoliants (e.g., Pumpkin Renew, FruitPeel) or yeast-based exfoliants (e.g., Yeast Resurface) would be more suitable for promoting cell turnover without causing irritation.

Makeup Remover Gel for Eyes and Lips

You proposed a formula for a makeup remover gel for eyes and lips:

• MakeUp-Wash 8%
• SugarThick 2%
• Phenoxyethanol SA 1%
• Water to 100%

This formula uses MakeUp-Wash, a gentle detergent that forms micelles to remove makeup, and SugarThick as a thickener to create a gel texture. Phenoxyethanol SA is included as a preservative.

You can likely achieve effective makeup removal without using MakeUp-Wash at a high concentration of 8%. Starting with a lower concentration, such as 3%, is recommended. If it doesn't remove makeup effectively enough, you can gradually increase the percentage.

Adding Propylene Glycol at 10-15% can also significantly help in dissolving and removing makeup, particularlyบริเวณรอบดวงตาและริมฝีปาก, and is a cost-effective ingredient for this purpose.

The SugarThick at 2% should be suitable for creating a gel texture in this type of formula.