Formulation Analysis and Ingredient Compatibility

Question

I have the following formulation with the specified ingredients and percentages. Could you please analyze this formulation, including the function of each ingredient and potential compatibility issues?

[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87/7564-skin-mimic-skin-barrier-restoration.html:pt1yux56]Skin-mimic™ (Skin Barrier Restoration)[/url:pt1yux56] 15%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/259-repair-activator-bifida-ferment-lysate.html:pt1yux56]Bifida Ferment Lysate[/url:pt1yux56] 10%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:pt1yux56]Niacinamide[/url:pt1yux56] 10%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/265-aa2g-ascorbyl-glucoside.html:pt1yux56]Ascorbyl Glucoside[/url:pt1yux56] 10%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:pt1yux56]GlucoBright™[/url:pt1yux56] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:pt1yux56]Acetyl glucosamine[/url:pt1yux56]) 8%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/123-calendula-extract-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94.html:pt1yux56]Calendula Extract[/url:pt1yux56] 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1140-tranexamic-acid-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%94.html:pt1yux56]Tranexamic Acid[/url:pt1yux56] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3/1117-willow-bark-extract-natural-salicylic-acid.html:pt1yux56]Willow Bark Extract[/url:pt1yux56] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/1925-adenosine.html:pt1yux56]Adenosine[/url:pt1yux56] Triphosphate 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/105-hyaluronic-acid-nano-low-molecule.html:pt1yux56]Sodium Hyaluronate[/url:pt1yux56] 1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:pt1yux56]Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)[/url:pt1yux56] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/additive-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%87/2071-odor-kill-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3.html:pt1yux56]Odor-Kill™[/url:pt1yux56] (ละลายน้ำ) 0.5%
13.[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%87-uv/7752-activeprotec-ox.html:pt1yux56]ActiveProtec™ OX[/url:pt1yux56] 1%
14.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%87-uv/6940-activeprotec.html:pt1yux56]ActiveProtec™ UV[/url:pt1yux56] 1%
15.Water 26.5%
16.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:pt1yux56]Satin Cream Maker[/url:pt1yux56]™ 1%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Analysis

This formulation combines several active ingredients targeting skin barrier repair, whitening, anti-aging, and soothing.

Key Active Ingredients:

Skin Barrier Repair:
- Skin-Barrier™ (Skin Mimic Ceramides Liposome) (15%): This ingredient is designed to restore the skin barrier by providing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in a structure similar to the skin's natural lipids. The high percentage used here is suitable for significantly compromised or dry skin.
- Repair Activator™ BG (Bifida Ferment Lysate) (10%): Known for its ability to help repair skin DNA damaged by UV light, contributing to anti-aging and skin health.
Whitening and Anti-Aging:
- Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) (10%): A versatile ingredient that helps reduce wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, redness, control oiliness, and strengthen the skin barrier. The Safe-B3™ type is noted for its high purity, allowing for use at 10% without causing flushing.
- Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C) (10%): A stable form of Vitamin C that offers whitening, antioxidant, and collagen-stimulating benefits.
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) (8%): Works synergistically with Niacinamide for whitening and dark spot reduction. It also helps stimulate the skin's natural production of Hyaluronic Acid, providing moisture.
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) (3%): Effective for brightening and reducing melanin formation, particularly useful for addressing melasma and dark spots. The 3% usage rate is the maximum allowed for cosmetic registration.
- Pure-Adenosine™ (Adenosine Triphosphate) (3%): An important component for skin cell function, used to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and condition the skin.
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) (3%): Provides gentle exfoliation, helps reduce irritation, and offers antioxidant and mild antibacterial properties.
Hydration:
- Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) (1%): Provides moisture to the skin. The small molecule size suggests it can penetrate deeper for hydration.
Soothing:
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) (5%): Known for its anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and wound-healing properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

Formulation Aids:

Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) (3%): Acts as a penetration enhancer, helping the active ingredients absorb into the skin more effectively.
Odor-Kill™ (0.5%): Included to help reduce the odor of other ingredients in the formula.
ActiveProtec™ OX (1%) and ActiveProtec™ UV (1%): These are stabilizers that protect the formula from deterioration caused by oxidation and UV light, helping to maintain the efficacy and appearance of the product over time.
Satin Cream Maker™ (1%): Functions as a heat-free emulsifier and thickener to create the cream texture. The 1% usage rate is within the recommended range.
Water (26.5%): The base of the water-phase.

Potential Compatibility Considerations:

Based on the product descriptions, there is a potential compatibility issue between Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) and Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide). The description for Ascorbyl Glucoside explicitly states that the formula should not contain Safe-B3 as it will affect the stability of AA-2G.

Additionally, achieving the optimal pH for all active ingredients simultaneously might require careful adjustment. Ascorbyl Glucoside is most stable at pH 6.5-6.8, while Willow Bark Extract is recommended for pH 4.0-6.5, and Pure-Adenosine™ for pH 3.5-6.5. Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid have broader pH ranges (3-8). The formulator would need to find a pH that balances the stability and efficacy of all components, or consider if the interaction between AA-2G and Niacinamide at the chosen pH is acceptable for the desired shelf life.

Overall, this is a complex formulation with many beneficial ingredients at significant concentrations. The primary concern is the stated incompatibility between Ascorbyl Glucoside and Niacinamide, which should be carefully evaluated during development.