Formulation Analysis

This formulation includes a high concentration of various active ingredients known for their benefits in anti-aging, skin regeneration, hydration, lifting, tightening, and brightening.

Here's a breakdown of the ingredients and their typical roles:

• Peptides and Growth Factors:

  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (3%): Known for wound healing, reducing wrinkles, and stimulating collagen production. The recommended usage rate is 1-3%, so 3% is at the higher end for potentially maximum efficacy. It requires a pH of 4.5-7.4 and mixing below 40°C.
  • L-Carnosine (1%): An antioxidant and anti-glycation agent that helps protect skin from damage and supports wound healing. The usage rate of 1% is within the recommended 0.1-1.0%. It requires a pH of 3.5-7.0 and mixing below 40°C. The manufacturer suggests using absorption enhancers like Butylene Glycol for better penetration.
  • Quick-Coll® (2%): An Amino Acid/Copper Complex that stimulates collagen and elastin production. The 2% usage rate is within the recommended 0.1-2%. It should be mixed in the final step below 40°C.

• Stem Cell and Bio-Fermentation Extracts:

  • Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™) (5%): Aims to prolong skin cell life and slow aging. 5% is within the recommended 0.5-5%. Mix below 40°C at pH 3.5-6.5.
  • Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™) (2%): Stimulates collagen, inhibits collagen breakdown, improves elasticity, and moisturizes. 2% is the recommended usage rate. Mix below 40°C.
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera) (64.1%): A yeast ferment known for revitalizing and hydrating the skin. The high concentration of 64.1% is within the possible usage range (1-100%) but is a significant portion of the formula, likely serving as a base. It has a pH of 4-7 and should be mixed below 40°C. High concentrations might feel greasy.

• Plankton and Marine Extracts:

  • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (1.6%): Provides effects similar to retinoids (reducing wrinkles, increasing skin thickness, stimulating collagen/elastin) without the irritation. 1.6% is the maximum recommended usage rate. Mix in the final step below 40°C at pH 5.0-6.0.
  • Plankton Artemia Extract (Plankton GP4G™) (3%): Protects skin from environmental stress, stimulates cell metabolism, and increases collagen. 3% is within the recommended 0.5-5% (recommended 2%). Higher doses might feel sticky. Mix in water below 40°C at pH 4-6.5.
  • Marine Plankton (Lifting, Tightening) (2%): Provides immediate and long-term lifting and tightening effects. 2% is the maximum recommended usage rate. Soluble in water at pH 3.5-6.5.
  • Salmon Roe Extract (5%): Rich in nutrients that rejuvenate skin, reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, and hydration. 5% is the recommended rate for aging skin. Mix in the final step below 40°C. The formula should be viscous to prevent precipitation.
  • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (3%): Fermented seaweed extract with anti-aging, lifting, and tightening effects. 3% is within the recommended 1-3%. Mix in water (water-phase) or final step below 40°C at pH 3-6.

• Other Actives:

  • Ectoine (2%): A highly effective cell protector and repair agent with anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-irritation, and anti-pollution benefits. 2% is the recommended usage rate. It is very stable across a wide pH range (1-9) and can withstand heat up to 80°C.
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) (2%): A skin brightening agent that reduces melanin production. 2% is the recommended maximum usage rate for whitening. Mix in the final step below 30°C at pH 3.5-6.5. Avoid pH above 8. Using ActiveProtecTM OX is recommended to prevent discoloration.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) (0.3%): Provides deep hydration. 0.3% is within the recommended range (0.1-0.5%) and suitable for dry skin (0.3-0.5%). It requires a preservative and has a pH range of 3.0-9.0, with temperature not exceeding 70°C during mixing.
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (1%): Enhances skin cell turnover, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves hydration and texture. 1% is the recommended usage rate. Disperse in water below 40°C at pH 3.5-6.5.
  • Adenosine Liposome (3%): Known for reducing wrinkles and wound healing, delivered via liposomes for better penetration. 3% is the recommended usage rate. Disperse in water at pH 3.5-6.5 and store in the refrigerator.

Compatibility and Formulation Considerations

The combination of these active ingredients targets multiple signs of aging and skin concerns. However, the list provided only includes active ingredients and their percentages, totaling 100%. A complete cosmetic formulation requires a base (usually water), thickeners, emulsifiers (if it's a cream or lotion), and a preservative system.

• pH and Temperature: Most ingredients are compatible within a pH range of approximately 4.5-6.0 and require mixing temperatures below 40°C, with Alpha Arbutin needing below 30°C. The high percentage of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (pH 4-7) will influence the final pH. Careful pH adjustment will be necessary to ensure the stability and efficacy of all actives, especially Copper Peptide (pH 4.5-7.4) and Alpha Arbutin (pH 3.5-6.5, avoid >8). Wakame Extract (pH 3-6) is also within this range.
• Texture: The high concentration of actives, particularly Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and Plankton Artemia Extract, might result in a sticky or potentially greasy texture. The formula will also need thickeners to achieve a desirable consistency and prevent the precipitation of ingredients like Salmon Roe Extract.
• Preservation: A suitable preservative system is essential for a water-based formula containing biological extracts like these. The chosen preservative must be compatible with all active ingredients and the final pH.
• Absorption: Consider adding absorption enhancers, as suggested for L-Carnosine, if you want to maximize its delivery into the skin.
• Stability Testing: Due to the complex mixture of active ingredients, it is highly recommended to perform stability testing on the final formulation to ensure the ingredients remain effective and the product maintains its quality over time under various conditions.

Conclusion

The proposed list of active ingredients is potent and targets a wide range of skin benefits. The percentages are generally within the recommended ranges for individual ingredients. However, this list is not a complete formula. You will need to add a suitable base, thickeners, preservatives, and potentially other excipients to create a stable, effective, and aesthetically pleasing product.

The compatibility of the active ingredients appears generally good within a specific pH and temperature range, but careful formulation work, pH adjustment, and stability testing are crucial before production. You may need to adjust the base or add thickeners to achieve the desired texture and prevent ingredient separation.