Formulation and Mixing Issues for Cream Scrub and Face Mask

Question

I am developing a cream scrub and a face mask formulation. My goal for the cream scrub is to have cleansing, whitening, softening, and exfoliating properties with a creamy texture and low foam. I encountered issues during mixing, including foaming, color darkening, and shrinkage. I also need advice on ingredient suitability and coloring.

Based on my goals and the issues encountered, could you please provide guidance on:

Ingredient Suitability: Which ingredients are suitable for a wash-off cream scrub/mask, considering the desired functions (cleansing, whitening, softening, exfoliation)? I was considering ingredients like Pumpkin Renew, Turmeric Extract, Shea Butter, Vitamin E, Goat Milk Powder, AminoWash, Butter Cream Maker, Cetearyl Alcohol, AHA (Glycolic Acid).
Formulation Adjustments: How should I adjust the formulation, including ingredient percentages (e.g., AminoWash 5%, Turmeric Extract 10%, Glycolic Acid 5%), to achieve the desired properties while being suitable for a wash-off product and potentially reducing cost?
Mixing Issues: What could be the cause of foaming, color darkening, and shrinkage during mixing, and what is the correct mixing procedure for this type of formulation? I used a cake/paint mixer.
Coloring: How should I incorporate color into the formulation, and what factors influence staining?
Face Mask Formulation: I also have a separate mask formula (without scrub particles). Are there any general considerations or ingredient incompatibilities I should be aware of for a leave-on mask formulation? For example, I heard Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and Vitamin B3 should not be used together, and I am considering using a surfactant like Lauryl Glucoside in the mask formulation.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Here is a summary of the key points discussed regarding your cream scrub and mask formulations:

Cream Scrub Formulation:

Initial Goal: Create a cream scrub that cleanses, whitens, softens, and exfoliates with a creamy texture and low foam.
Initial Feedback: Ingredients needing long absorption (Pumpkin Renew, Turmeric Extract) are not suitable for a wash-off product. High Turmeric Extract percentage (10%) is potentially harmful (max 4%). Initial AminoWash (5%) is insufficient for cleansing.
Recommended Adjustments:
- Remove ingredients needing long absorption.
- Increase AminoWash to 10% for better cleansing.
- Use Butter Cream Maker (5%) and Cetearyl Alcohol (7%) for texture and stability.
- AHA (like Lactic Acid or Glycolic Acid) can be added for exfoliation, but combining with physical scrub can cause irritation. Start Glycolic Acid at 5% for wash-off.
- For cost-saving in a wash-off product, consider removing expensive nourishing ingredients (Shea Butter, Vitamin E, Goat Milk Powder) as their benefit is minimal when rinsed quickly.
- Lauryl Glucoside can replace AminoWash for less foam, but monitor and adjust pH (ideally 3.5 for AHA) using a mild base like Triethanolamine if needed.

Mixing Issues:

Problem: Foaming, color darkening, and shrinkage occurred after mixing.
Diagnosis & Solution: Foaming is likely due to the mixing tool (cake/paint mixer) introducing too much air. Use a mixer designed for creams. Also, ensure the water phase is heated to a similar temperature (around 70°C) as the oil phase before combining.

Coloring:

Water-soluble colors go in the water phase, oil-soluble in the oil phase, or add at the end. Staining depends on concentration and contact time.

Mask Formulation:

A proposed mask formula (without scrub particles) was deemed mixable.
Important Note: Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and Vitamin B3 should not be in the same formula.
Using a surfactant like Lauryl Glucoside in a mask intended for long contact time is not recommended due to potential irritation.