Formulation Analysis and Recommendations

Thank you for providing your formulation and details about the issue you are encountering. Based on the ingredients and the mixing steps you provided, the problem likely arises from the method of combining the ingredients, particularly how the wax and powders are incorporated.

Analysis of the Mixing Procedure:

Your current Step C involves dissolving Polyethylene Wax (or Tribehenin) in Matte Silica powder. Waxes are solid at room temperature and need to be melted into a liquid phase (like oils or silicones) with heat to be properly incorporated into a formulation. Attempting to dissolve wax directly into a powder will not result in a homogeneous mixture and is a probable cause for issues like grittiness, separation, or inconsistent texture.

Additionally, combining all phases (A, B, C, D) at the end without a structured emulsification or dispersion process can lead to instability, especially with a high percentage of powders and silicones.

Recommended Adjustments to the Mixing Procedure:

To improve the stability and texture of your formulation, I recommend revising the mixing steps as follows:

1. Phase 1 (Silicone/Oil/Wax Phase): Combine Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Silicone Gel, Hectorite Gel, and Lipid lite. Heat this mixture gently to around 70-80°C to ensure all components are well dispersed and ready for the wax.
2. Wax Incorporation: In a separate container, add the Polyethylene Wax (or Tribehenin). Add a small portion of the heated Silicone/Oil/Wax Phase (from Step 1) to the wax and heat gently, stirring until the wax is completely melted and dissolved in the liquid. Once dissolved, combine this mixture back with the rest of the Silicone/Oil/Wax Phase from Step 1 and maintain the temperature.
3. Phase 2 (Powder Phase): In a separate container, combine the Silicone Film powder, Silk Mica Powder, Matte Silica, and Color. Mix these powders thoroughly to ensure an even blend.
4. Combine Phases: Slowly add the Powder Phase (from Step 3) to the heated Silicone/Oil/Wax Phase (from Step 2) while blending continuously. Use high shear mixing if possible to help disperse the powders evenly and prevent clumping. Ensure all powders are fully wetted and incorporated.
5. Cooling: Continue blending the mixture while allowing it to cool down to room temperature. The cooling process, while blending, helps to stabilize the formulation.

By dissolving the wax in the liquid phase and properly dispersing the powders into the silicone/oil mixture, you should achieve a more stable and homogeneous product. The high percentage of powders and silicones in your formula requires careful and thorough blending during the combining phase to ensure everything is well integrated.

If you continue to experience issues, further adjustments to the percentages of certain ingredients or the inclusion of additional dispersing agents might be necessary.