Formulation and Mixing Procedure for 10% AHA Exfoliating Cream

Asked by: benjapa On: April 02, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

I would like to formulate a 10% AHA exfoliating cream with the following recipe:

  • Lactic acid 10%
  • CreamMaker acid 4%
  • Coconut Oil 10%
  • phenoxythanol sa 1%
  • Water

I would like to know the correct mixing procedure for this formula.

Answer

AHA 10% Exfoliating Cream Formulation

To create an effective and stable AHA cream using your selected ingredients, here is the recommended procedure and formulation:

Recommended Formula (Total 100%):

  1. Distilled Water: 75%
  2. Lactic Acid (AHA) 90%: 10% (This provides approximately 9% active Lactic Acid, which is within the safe and effective range for home use).
  3. Fractionated Coconut Oil: 10%
  4. CreamMaker Acid™: 4%
  5. Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

Mixing Instructions

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine the Distilled Water and Lactic Acid in a container. Stir until they are completely mixed.
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate container, mix the Fractionated Coconut Oil with CreamMaker Acid™. Stir until the CreamMaker Acid™ is well dispersed in the oil.
  3. Emulsification: Gradually pour the Water Phase into the Oil Phase while stirring continuously. For a smoother and more professional texture, use a hand blender or a high-speed mixer until a thick, uniform cream forms.
  4. Add Preservative: Once the cream is formed and uniform, add the Phenoxyethanol SA. Stir thoroughly to ensure the preservative is evenly distributed.
  5. Check pH: It is crucial to measure the pH of the final product. For an AHA cream to be effective yet safe for home use, the pH should be between 3.5 and 4.0. If the pH is lower than 3.5, it may cause excessive irritation.

Important Recommendations

  • Sun Protection: AHA increases your skin's sensitivity to the sun. You must apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily while using this product and for one week after discontinuing use.
  • Stability: CreamMaker Acid™ is specifically designed for low pH formulas, making it the perfect choice for this AHA cream to ensure the emulsion remains stable.
  • Patch Test: Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the cream to your face to check for any adverse reactions.

Follow-up Replies

benjapa
April 04, 2026 16:28
Question:

I would like to formulate a 10% AHA exfoliating cream for heels and elbows with the following recipe:

  • Lactic acid 10%
  • CreamMaker acid 4%
  • Coconut Oil 10%
  • phenoxythanol sa 1%
  • Water

I have a few questions regarding the procedure and texture:

  1. Does the mixing process with the oil require heat? (Normally, when I use Butter Cream Maker, I have to heat the oil first).
  2. Will the resulting cream texture be lighter than one made with Butter Cream Maker?
  3. If I want a thicker consistency, should I increase the amount of CreamMaker Acid?
Answer:

AHA 10% Exfoliating Cream for Heels and Elbows

Regarding your questions about the formulation using CreamMaker Acid™ compared to Butter Cream Maker™:

1. Is heat required?

Unlike Butter Cream Maker™, which is a wax-based emulsifier that requires heating to melt (Hot Process), CreamMaker Acid™ is a liquid polymer emulsifier.

  • No heat is required: You can mix this formula at room temperature (Cold Process).
  • Note on Coconut Oil: If you use Fractionated Coconut Oil, it remains liquid and can be mixed cold. However, if you use standard Virgin Coconut Oil (which is solid at room temperature), you must heat the oil until it melts before mixing.

2. Is the texture lighter than Butter Cream Maker™?

  • Yes: CreamMaker Acid™ provides a lighter, smoother, and more "gel-cream" feel. Butter Cream Maker™ is specifically designed to create a heavy, rich, and "buttery" texture, which is often preferred for very dry areas like heels.

3. How to make the cream thicker?

  • Increase CreamMaker Acid™: You can increase the usage rate up to 5% to achieve a thicker consistency.
  • Add Thickeners: For heels and elbows, if you want a very thick and occlusive cream, you can add Cetyl Alcohol or Beeswax (2-5%). Note: If you add these, you MUST use heat (Hot Process) to melt them into the oil phase at approximately 70-80°C.

Recommended Mixing Procedure (Cold Process)

  1. Water Phase: Combine Distilled Water and Lactic Acid (AHA) 90%. Stir until uniform.
  2. Oil Phase: Mix Fractionated Coconut Oil and CreamMaker Acid™ (4-5%). Stir until the emulsifier is well-dispersed in the oil.
  3. Emulsification: Gradually pour the Water Phase into the Oil Phase while stirring or using a hand blender. Continue mixing until a stable, uniform cream forms.
  4. Preservative: Add Phenoxyethanol SA and stir thoroughly.
  5. pH Adjustment: Ensure the final pH is between 3.5 and 4.0 for safety and effectiveness.

Recommendation for Heels: Since you are treating heels and elbows, the heavy texture of Butter Cream Maker™ combined with Cetyl Alcohol (as per its standard recipe) might actually be more effective at softening tough skin than the lighter CreamMaker Acid™. However, CreamMaker Acid™ is much easier to prepare as it does not require heating.

Tags

Acidic Formulation Active Ingredient Stability Cream Exfoliation Mixing Procedure