Formulation and Mixing Procedure for Gel and Light Cream Serums

Question

I have designed two serum formulas and would like to confirm the mixing procedures and ingredient compatibility, based on previous advice regarding incompatible ingredients like Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, and Vitamin C.

Formula 1 (Gel Serum):

Niacinamide 10%
Zinc PCA 1%
Copper Peptide 1%
Pitera 20%
GlucoBright 4%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 1%
Water 62%

For Formula 1, the mixing procedure is to first create the gel base by adding Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) to water and stirring/blending until a gel forms, then gradually adding the remaining ingredients and mixing. Is this correct?

Formula 2 (Light Cream Serum):

Perfect-C 10%
Pitera 20%
Squalane 10%
Light Cream Maker 1%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Water 58%

For Formula 2, my proposed mixing procedure is to separate into oil and water phases:

Oil Phase: Mix Perfect-C and Squalane, then add Light Cream Maker and mix.
Water Phase: Mix Pitera with water.
Combine the oil and water phases, mix until homogeneous.
Finally, add Mild Preserved Eco and mix.

Is this procedure correct, and are the ingredient percentages suitable, especially for Light Cream Maker given the oil content?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Regarding the formulas you inquired about and the compatibility information previously provided by the staff, here is a summary and recommended mixing procedures:

Ingredient Compatibility:

As the staff previously informed, Perfect-C and Zinc PCA should not be mixed in the same formula, and Niacinamide should not be used with any type of Vitamin C.
The two formulas you designed have correctly separated the incompatible ingredients.
- Formula 1 (Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Copper Peptide, Pitera, GlucoBright) does not contain Perfect-C or other Vitamin C, and there are no conflicts based on the information received.
- Formula 2 (Perfect-C, Pitera, Squalane) does not contain Niacinamide or Zinc PCA, so they are compatible.

Base Selection:

For combination skin with slight oiliness, using a water-based or light cream base as you selected for each formula is appropriate.

Percentages and Mixing:

Formula 1:
- Ingredients:
  - Niacinamide 10%
  - Zinc PCA 1%
  - Copper Peptide 1%
  - Pitera 20%
  - GlucoBright 4%
  - Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  - Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 1%
  - Water 62%
- Comment: Total percentage is 100%, which is correct. Ingredients are compatible.
- Mixing Procedure: According to the staff's recommendation, start by creating the gel base. Add Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) to water and stir or blend until a gel forms. Then, gradually add the remaining ingredients to the gel base, stirring or blending until well combined. The order of adding the other ingredients does not matter.
- Preservative: Mild Preserved Eco 1% is necessary for this formula.
Formula 2:
- Ingredients:
  - Perfect-C 10%
  - Pitera 20%
  - Squalane (Olive) 10%
  - Light Cream Maker 1%
  - Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  - Water 58%
- Comment: Total percentage is 100%, which is correct. Ingredients are compatible.
- Additional Staff Recommendation: Since this formula contains a high percentage of oil-based ingredients (Perfect-C and Squalane totaling 20%), the staff recommended increasing the amount of Light Cream Maker to 1.5% to help stabilize the formula and reduce the chance of separation.
- Revised Formula based on Recommendation:
  - Perfect-C 10%
  - Pitera 20%
  - Squalane (Olive) 10%
  - Light Cream Maker 1.5%
  - Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  - Water 57.5% (decreased by 0.5% to maintain a total of 100%)
- Mixing Procedure: Your understanding of the steps is correct: separate the oil phase and water phase.
  - Oil Phase: Mix Perfect-C and Squalane together. Then add Light Cream Maker and mix until combined.
  - Water Phase: Mix Pitera with water until combined.
  - Combine the oil phase and water phase. Stir or blend until a homogeneous mixture is formed.
  - Finally, add Mild Preserved Eco and mix until well incorporated.
- Preservative: Mild Preserved Eco 1% is necessary for this formula.